Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Cleaned B.M. August 2019. Equipped by P.P and L.P.
Page Views: 1,055 total · 16/month
Shared By: Ben M on Aug 23, 2019
Admins: John Miller, Paul DeMay

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

One of the best cracks in the UP, thoughtful movement with creative jamming and an easily protected crux.

Start in a crack that points up and left to a 6" crack. Follow the line of weakness above the OW to a finger crack. Delicate movement at the top to gain the slopey ledge. Traverse right on the ledge to the next crack system. Proceed up this next line of weakness up to a small ledge below a triangular cutout with a two inch crack around halfway. From here, follow the left line of weakness up through the cutout into a stellar left facing finger crack. Take the finger crack up and follow the blocks to the anchors.

You can take a right at the upper triangular cutout through the shrub, but the climbing is better (and harder) if you choose the left crack system.

This route was originally named "Lucky Scars" by P.P. and L.P. when established as a top rope climb. It likely joins the end of wine line at the slopey ledge. It does have the potential to extend into the blank upper face with some more cleaning, an anchor, and a couple bolts to make a gnarly mixed route following the first line of weakness strait up, past the slopey ledge and into the blank headwall.

Location Suggest change

Starts in a triangular cutout below an OW at the far right side of the lower wall. Right near the two maple trees growing very close together. ~20 ft right of where Love Street, Matrix and Resurrection are clumped together, anchors are immediately below a white pine on a ledge near the top of the wall and are visible from the bottom.

Protection Suggest change

Singles from 4"- 00 Metolius, doubles from .5"-.3", rack of offset nuts, and a 6" cam. Anchors and rap rings at the top.

Route becomes PG-13 without a six inch cam.

Eats gear.

Photos

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