Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Taylor Krosbakken, Aug 2019
Page Views: 398 total · 64/month
Shared By: Taylor Krosbakken on Aug 23, 2019 with improvements by Rutger Van Huber
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

Are you ready for stemming sequences harder than Poseidon? A lie back sequence that will make you cry for your mama? You better be.

If this sounds like your idea of a good time here’s what to do. Rap down to decent sized ledge about 15 ft off the water with a small tree on it. Its about 5 ft by 5 ft in size. Using the crack system to the left and pasting your feet and palms on the right wall, stem your way up the slightly overhanging corner until it disappears. Then without much of a rest, initiate the layback crux sequence to a couple face moves ending on a decent sized ledge. From here trend up and right on easier but run out terrain and then into an acute dihedral where you will find more pro. From the last ledge, about 10 ft from the top, turn and face the lake and stretch for where your belayer's feet probably are at if top roping, for the fun and exciting finish. If you are short, this will be an all out dyno. You can also be lame and bail up the dirty corner straight up/climbers left.

Short climbers may also have more than average difficulties with the stemming. Things get pretty stretched out.

Overall a blast of a climb. A fun lead, but the gear is thin and there's a little run out after the crux.

For a top belay, there is a nice ledge 4 ft from the top lip so set the masterpoint just below the lip, then sit or stand on the ledge for a cozy belay. Rappel climbers left of the sharp arete creating the ledge.

If the conditions are right and you are lucky enough, you may just catch a glimpse of Amphitrite’s Beaver.

Location

Hike up north until you can see Palisade Creek coming into the lake and locate the epic triangular diving board. Amphitrite is immediately climbers left of this. See pictures for the location of the top of the climb. If you can’t find it you probably didn't go far enough north.

Protection

Top anchor is trees needing some pretty long cord/webbing.

For leading, a double rack of cams micro to .4, singles .5 and .75. Ball nuts very useful. Nuts not so much. Used one very small nut after the runout. An array of small cams for the lower anchor. Currently a stuck Purple Metolius Mastercam that is bomber. And if you get it out, I would appreciate it back. :)

Photos