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Heaven on Fire

5.10 PG13, Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Tom Bowker, Amy Colburn, August 3, 2019 done ground up over 3 seasons, all bolts hand drilled. 5 bolts retroed after FA to pimp up for prime time
New Hampshire > WM: Kancamagus… > Captain

Description

P1 up clean rock for 50ft to a bolt. After 2nd bolt trend right to belay. 5.5, 2bolts, 115ft         P2 gain a bucket above the belay(#3camalot) and follow 7 bolts to next belay 5.8+, 115ft.     P3 traverse left to gain the ramp that slants up right to next belay. 5.10, 4 bolts, 50ft
P4 follow bolts to top of climb. 5.9, 3 bolts, 50ft
DESCENT With a 70M rope rap to top of P2 and continue to P1 then to ground.

Location

Route begins at the lowest toe of rock on the main slab above a small drainage.

Protection

7 QD's including extendables and a #3camalot
All belays are double ring bolt                         ***70 METER ROPE REQUIRED TO RAPPEL *** unless you want to carry 2 ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tom hanging from a hook, hand drilling the first bolt on pitch 3. (10/14/17)
[Hide Photo] Tom hanging from a hook, hand drilling the first bolt on pitch 3. (10/14/17)
This is where the route starts. (9/1/2017)
[Hide Photo] This is where the route starts. (9/1/2017)
Tom at the top of pitch 2. (10/14/17)
[Hide Photo] Tom at the top of pitch 2. (10/14/17)
Looking down the crux 3rd pitch
[Hide Photo] Looking down the crux 3rd pitch
Amy Colburn topping out on the FA
[Hide Photo] Amy Colburn topping out on the FA
Looking up Heaven on Fire
[Hide Photo] Looking up Heaven on Fire