5.11a,
Trad, 130 ft (39 m),
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
FA: Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde, May 2001
Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (m) Smith Rock…
> (6) Northwest Face
ALL SEASONAL CLIMBING CLOSURES FOR CLIMBING AND SLACKLINING WILL BE LIFTED ON FRIDAY, JULY 7TH THIS WEEK. THANKS, EVERYONE FOR YOUR HELP IN OBSERVING RESTRICTIONS DURING THE NESTING SEASON!
There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…
Description
This mixed route starts by surmounting a detached rock to reach the first bolt. Cruxy vertical face climbing on solid rock leads you up to and around a blunt arete. Run out an easy slab to another bolt and the beginning of the hand crack. The crack can be painful(consider taping) but is very secure with plenty of footholds, like an easier version of Karate Crack. The crack turns low angle and wide, then a final bolt appears. Belay from the rap anchor up and right, hidden under a sage bush on a small ledge.
Rappel with 2 ropes, or make 2 raps with a single 60m using the Westside Solitude anchor.
Location
About 100 feet right of Wherever I May Roam, look for the jagged hand crack starting 60 feet up.
Protection
8 bolts plus a single set of cams from #1 to #4, optional extra #3
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures
Details
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