Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Schism

5.10d, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 15 votes
FA: unknown
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Sea to Sky (Squ… > Chek > Monastery

Description

Start on the some good crimps/edges on the large boulder, and top out. This line is unbroken seam that runs to the top. Technical laybacking and interesting body movement and positioning takes you to the top. The climbing startsbeasy, but becomes increasingly challenging and thoughtful as the seam thins a bit. The route builds well to a technical crux right before the anchors. Thoughtful movement, and well protected. A great climb. 

The lower holds in the crack are large, and you can easily establish yourself on the climb. There are two bolts on the lower boulder if you want to protect the opening, but the best option to eliminate rope drag is to either back clean the boulder or just not clip it entirely. I would recommend clipping up and back cleaning the first 2-3 bolts in the crack to eliminate rope drag. 

Location

Right side of the crag, it starts on the face of the large boulder at the base of the crack. 

Protection

11 bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joshua de Riba
Petaluma, CA
[Hide Comment] This thing probably gets overlooked since it’s a 5.10 at a hard-gal crag but this is an exceptional route with great movement and very enjoyable. Jul 1, 2022
Dan Vizmanos
Brampton, ON
 
[Hide Comment] such a good technical climb! must do after the descend from frontside 180! the perma draws in this area is so sweet! Jul 27, 2022