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Routes in Redmans Tooth
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Chimney of Karma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Deviant Deviations T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Huevos T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Left Buddha S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Right Buddha S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Split Personality T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Tower of Dharma T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 43.35202, -122.682 |
| FA: | Steve Miller, Harold Hall, G. Orton, 1994 & 2000. |
| Page Views: | 708 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Aug 20, 2019 |
| Admins: | Winston Mueller, Nate Ball |
Description
P1 (80 ft): follow a thin crack about 40 feet to first bolt (5.8). Leave crack (5.10a) and follow a catwalk about 40 feet to belay anchors (5.7).
P2: (100 ft) Crux moves are climbing up 15 feet (.10c or A1) from left side of belay past 4 bolts into a thin crack. Once in the crack follow it clipping bolts and placing nuts to a small overhang traverse (.10d). Scramble further up the crack setting up next belay in the Doug-fir or continue up to first large ledge setting a belay in the crack. Note: rope drag may become an issue past the Doug-fir.
P3 (30 ft): From the ledge scramble up several large boulders to summit (unprotected 5.6).
Descent: replace slings and rappel off uphill side.
Location
From the left of Buddha Tooth scramble up the road cut, up hill angling left for approximately 300 ft to Buck Tooth. The tallest of the three main pinnacles. Find a shallow cave in the bottom downhill side. Huevos begins in a thin crack on the wall just right of the cave between the cave & a large Chinquapin.
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