[Hide Comment] IMO, for a higher value climb, a better start is the Revelation Chimney first pitch. If doing that start, at the top of Revelation's first pitch, scramble 30 feet right in a bushy gully to a separate two bolt anchor. Continue up the direct start (brown Fixe hangers) for the second pitch and make sure to stay to the furthest right bolted line as the middle line is Dr. Hypocrite's Golden Rule. You can also scramble further up the gully and continue with the normal traverse start (much easier with burgundy/brown ClimbTech hangers). The direct variation from the top of Revelation's first pitch intersects the second pitch at ~4th bolt and clocks in at 11a. To maximize a fantastic, sustained four star pitch, combine pitches 2 & 3 (21 bolts total & 160 feet direct or 17 bolts & 140 feet).

Due to their short nature, I consider 6 & 7 a pitch as there is no reason to stop at the Forrest Van Meter anchors (although there is a tree on that belay ledge that offers a small amount of shade). It should be noted, the 8th pitch (via description) still needs some brushing as there is a 15 foot section we missed on the initial cleaning when we developed the route (give us some slack!). Moreover, there is a questionable bolt that will be fixed/upgraded on the last pitch. The likelihood of a fall there is low, but it's still something that should be considered until fixed. Both the brushing and the bolt will be attended to once temperatures cool as it is way too nuclear to work up there currently.

The approximate bolt counts – splitting hairs, I know – from my notes which differ slightly:
P1 – 8 bolts.
P2 – 10 bolts(non direct start 10c) or 14 bolts (direct start 11a).
P3 – 7 bolts.
P4 – 10 bolts (5.6).
Last pitch – 3 bolts (isn't noted).

Recommended pitch linkups via description:
2-3
5-7
8-9 need good extended runner usage and still has some minor rope drag.

Note: 08/24/19 - A key hold just below the second pitch's anchors has broken and is now that pitch's crux at 10c. It's a little airy to reach the bolt but it's plenty safe. Aug 21, 2019

[Hide Comment] Want to open up a conversation about grading inconsistency here - we did Revelation Route and Time Warp back to back today, and P2/3 of Time Warp seemed significantly harder than anything on Revelation route - in fact, it felt noticeably harder than pretty much any 11 I'd ever done - if I were to have done them without being told the grade, I would have said sustained 11. It was a stark contrast to not only the 10d and higher pitches on Revelation Route but also the P8 10d. We had little to no trouble moving through Revelation Route's P1/3/5 and this routes P8, but P2/3 on Time Warp was an another level entirely. A flaring tips crack, sustained big moves through tiny crimps, it all seems a bit beyond 10c/d. To be clear, I'm not advocating for whether or not this should be 10d - just that the grading isn't very consistent at all between pitches/routes in the same area.

The traverse pitch was wild though. Pretty insecure moves on a narrow ridge with some outrageous exposure. This whole route was a super unique experience. Excited for it to clean up a bit more. Aug 8, 2020

[Hide Comment] Tal, you may have been on Dr. Hypocrit’s Golden Rule instead of Time Warp. These two routes are close together around pitch 2-3, and then Time Warp traverses off to the right on pitch 4. If I recall correctly, they share the belay at the end of pitch 3. Time Warp goes right there, and Dr. Hypocrit’s goes up and a bit left for a long, sustained pitch toward the headwall near Revelation. Aug 10, 2020

[Hide Comment] Tod, taking a look at the guidebook entry for it, it would not surprise me. I'm not too sure which we were on - it was brown hangers, but I don't recall the brand. I'm sure I'll give this route another try and will try to pay closer attention next time - even then it looks like DHGR is only 11a at that pitch which is still surprising given how difficult it felt compared to Revelation Route. I'll have to give it another shot - I still have a lot to learn at the 5.11 grade. Aug 10, 2020

[Hide Comment] Tal, brown hangers are on Time Warp. I agree the first 10c and 10d pitches are stiff. Sep 9, 2020

[Hide Comment] Excellent climb. P2 felt stiff at the crux but the rest felt accurate. So much fun! Oct 31, 2020

[Hide Comment] Longest sport route is debatable.

Nothing is harder than .10d. You just have to find the right nub/ crimp. Awesome movement and exposure even on the easy pitches.

Link-ups: 3+4, 5+6+7, 8+9.

Lots of bolt lines, just keep right. Aug 22, 2021

[Hide Comment] We linked 2+3, 5+6+7, 8+9. Linking 2 and 3 makes by far the best (and hardest) pitch on the route. My partner and I both thought the 8th pitch seemed much easier than pitch 2 or 3. Sep 24, 2021

[Hide Comment] The start of this route REALLY IS right next to Revelation, despite being listed in a different section. It is probably 1/3-mile walk (left, around a buttress) from Time Stands Still. You'll know you found it when you see a couple bolts in a ~30ft corner chimney with a chock stone/roof on top (Revelation) and a 4th Class groove on the right, leading to the top of a block and the start of Time Warp.

It was foggy when I was up there last, but next time I hope to take a pic and make a large scale route overlay to put up here! Nov 1, 2021

[Hide Comment] - This is a fun route with great rock and an approachable setting that's worth a visit.
- We linked pitches 4, 5, 6, & 7 with a 65m rope (extending/skipping some bolts, of course).
- To me, 680' of climbing is overly gratuitous. Even with a 100ft traverse and multiple right-leaning pitches, I only counted ~550' (did not include the short summit scramble). "Longest sport route in Colorado" is a bold claim.
- I didn't do any 5.11 moves. Linking pitches 2 & 3 felt roughly 5.10c. Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] What sport route is longer? Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] Todd, I think there are quite a few long sport routes in Colorado that could be longer: Royal Flush, Childhood's End are two that come to my mind. Of course, one could argue that Childhood's End isn't really a sport route. Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] Yeah Monty, I dunno if you can call Childhood’s a sport route any more than you can call Hall of Mirrors one. But you are right about Royal Flush, though Flush is pretty discontinuous climbing in comparison to this. That all said, this is one of the longer sport routes in CO, which is pretty cool. Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] Didn't Childhood's End go in ground up? Sport route? Say what? Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] I think climbing the Empire routes Pandemonium and Priceless together (the latter starts immediately above the former) would be in close contention based on height. Plus it's direct (no 100' traverses) and unbroken save for the Catwalk Ledge. I s'pose it comes down to how the math is done. Anybody got a 600+ft tape measure laying around? Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] I really don’t think Childhood's End is a sport route. So Royal Flush is a pitch of bolted scrambling to some wandering on ledges, to another random pitch, to more wandering, to more ledges, then literally 100 yard hike through a talus field to for or five pitches of actual continuous climbing. So, I don’t count Royal Flush either. I think a route has to be a continuous climb and one that most people would consider a sport route. I’m sure someone will bolt a longer one here before too long though. Nov 15, 2021

[Hide Comment] Oh yeah, good call. I forgot about that one. I think i would loosely define the length by "if a typical person would be comfortable unroping to travel between pitches, the measurement ends there." Nov 16, 2021

[Hide Comment] This conversation makes me chuckle a little bit.... Just one cliff alone in NC (yeah, that's right CO boys) has dozens of "sport" routes that are longer than anything out here. Just saying, but I digress... I'd agree most with Tod's assessment in regards to the topic at hand. Nov 16, 2021

[Hide Comment] Amazing rock and fun climbing. P3 felt a bit squeezed (not sure which came first). I stayed right of the bolt line using side pulls as it was the path of least resistance even though I saw chalk on a lot of small holds. My personal favorite was P8 as the moves just kept coming and every hold was where my body told me it would be.

This will get climbed hundreds of times. Nov 24, 2021

[Hide Comment] Revisited the route 2 years after my initial comment - I realized what we did was the 5.11 direct variation - which is what I was talking about as it related to difficulty. We cruised Revelation Route clean, but the direct variation definitely took some fight from both of us, making me think it probably clocks in a little closer to 11b. It eases up considerably where it joins back the normal pitch, and the rest of that pitch and the 10d pitch immediately following are both fairly casual. Either way, still a super fun route. Pitches 4-7 can be linked with a 70m, a lot of extensions, and a bit of rope drag - it really feels like you're questing off into the great unknown if you do so.

Question - does anybody know what the big crack system below the P6 or 7 anchors is? Looks like a big face crack into a big corner crack - both are probably somewhere between hands and stacks for their length. Is that Forrest Van Meter? Aug 23, 2022

[Hide Comment] We didn’t climb the Revelation Chimney, but I recommend starting the route that way as the first pitch of TW doesn’t make a lot of sense. It is wandering, mostly moderate terrain, requires a downclimb after, and doesn’t add much to the quality of the route at all. Also, the huge flake that you pull onto as you step across to start the pitch is incredibly hollow. Pitch 2 and 3 are great, but P8 is the money pitch. Really fun movement over the bulge. Fun route! Oct 1, 2022