Type: Trad, Alpine, 460 ft, 5 pitches
FA: August 2018
Page Views: 287 total · 100/month
Shared By: Mark Carlson on Aug 18, 2019
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Description


A good choice on a bad weather day. It's right above camp, and is set up for rappelling with a single 60m rope. Plus, if a storm comes in quick, you will probably be near a bolt you can lower off. Many, many hours of hand drilling produced this route. Like them or not...

P1 - 5.10, 30m - Stay left after the left bolt. Easy to cheat past the short crux. (6 bolts + gear)

P2 - 5.10, 30m- - Techy mantle above the belay (easy to cheat.) Change corners several times. Finish with 5.9 kneebar thrutching. (Many bolts + #3 cam.)

P3 - 5.6, 20m - Ramble up and right. At the end, stay left to belay on a nice perch. You can see the P2 belay from here. Avoid a higher belay that is on non ring bolts (awkward stance.) (2 bolts + gear)

P4 - 5.9, 30m - Head up to the bolt, walk right on a foot rail. Climb up and right to a triangular block with a 3" crack. Climb the block and head left. Gain another crack that heads back up and right. (2 bolts + gear)

P5 - 5.7, 30m - Head up right from the belay to a bolt. Continue up and right to a left facing corner. Tricky gear (may require digging with a nut tool) but easy climbing. Belay at the bolts, or higher up on slung blocks. (A couple of bolts + gear)

Location

See description photo for a rough sketch of where the route is.
Approach as for True Grit, but stop immediately after the roofs meet the ground. Look up for the bolts.

Protection

Single rack from BD .3 to #3, doubles in #2 and .3 are a good idea

Photos

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