Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade III|
|FA:||jj McArthur 1887; E Face as climbed by R Hall, MJ Cross, T Russler, T Schlegel, S Latham July 1978|
|Page Views:||227 total · 11/month|
|Shared By:||Robert Hall on Aug 18, 2019|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
We diverted from the normal SE Arete (SE Ridge) by climbing into the bowl [photo] of the East Face. In 1978 we encountered very pleasant Class 2 / 3- glacial ice [photo] which we took to the ridgeline. Climbers today should check the condition of the rock between glacier and ridgeline.
Once rejoined with the 1887 route we continued easily on snow [photo] and mostly just hiking along on the rock.
The 1973 guidebook* speaks of encountering "two short rock faces" along the ridge. The first is avoided by "a short traverse to the south". We reached a highpoint that overlooked a wall that did not look to inviting: ...very broken, quite surprisingly steep, and generally pretty ugly looking [photo] , especially to us "granite" climbers. Whether this was face #1 (if it was there seemed to be nothing "short" about any traverse around it) or whether it was #2 not sure. We think it was #2 because the guidebook said #2 is also "broken by chimneys [and] must be ascended."
We had yet to learn that in the Rockies you really have to be "up close and personal" with the fractured limestone to determine how hard it is.
Nevertheless, to increase our chances of "climbing another day" we had a nice lunch and turned back.
* Italic quotes from Climber's Guide to the Canadian Rockies, 1973, Putnam and Boles