Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Brad Fauteux
Page Views: 794 total · 27/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Aug 17, 2019
Admins: Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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The Climb

This is an astonishing line that starts sitting in the back of the cave at the base of the crack! Start with the right hand on a good finger bucket, and the left hand on a crimp down and left. (From this positioning you will almost be facing towards the outside of the roof rather than staring at the back wall.)

Once oriented, pull on and follow a series of good holds found in the crack. Using a combination of strength and technique, make a series of difficult moves on finger-locks before having to make a crux foot-cut!
Match the edge of the roof and make a few more hard moves up and left leading to a somewhat tricky top-out.

Location

This problem starts at the base of the crack system that flows through the middle of the large roof.

There is a chasm that drops around five feet in the back of the cave and this line climbs over the pit for the 3rd and 4th move. The void can be covered thoroughly with a large organic pad and the fall will be fairly safe.

Protection

A minimum of 3 pads and a spotter, preferably two, one to move the pads.
5-8 pads would be ideal.

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