Type: Trad, 270 ft (82 m), 3 pitches
FA: Pitch 1, see Solipsism. P2, Ira OMC, Doug Scott. P3 Chris Elms, Stoney Middleton
Page Views: 540 total · 25/month
Shared By: Ira O on Aug 12, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Pich 1. Same Solipsism.  5.10a, 90 ft.

Pitch 2 "Raiders of the lost Arch" : From the anchor, head up on difficult friction past 2 bolts to a shallow corner that takes gear . Continue up past bolts and gear a nice featured face to a small overlapping arch. Do some hardcore smearing and bouldering action to gain a perfect undercling, (follower should get the undercling before unclipping the bolt, to avoid losing their stance)  then traverse left a few feet , maintaining those tenuous smears, until you can reach positive holds above.  Pull through the roof, then head left to an anchor. 5.10+? (Not sure on grade) 100 ft.

Pitch 3 "The curving crack"  climb to the left, up a short corner. Reach right to clip a bolt, then make tricky moves up and right to reach the base of the corner/crack. Climb the splitter hand crack until it widens , (#4 cam size) follow the crack to a 2 bolt anchor. 5.9 , 80 feet.

Rappel the route with a 70. I think a 60 would work but no promises.

Location

Same as Solipsism. 

Protection

Bolted anchor. Trad rack to #4. You could prob do without nuts.

Photos

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