Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Albert Han
Page Views: 42 total · 42/month
Shared By: Albert Han on Aug 7, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Are you dying to try The Forever War but don't want to lead it? Well you're in luck, because there's an easy way up to the anchors!

I too wanted to prove I could climb like Pamela Shanti Pack (boy, would I find out how wrong I was). I didn't want to exhaust myself going up Intergalactic Bong Rip, so I peaked around the corner of The Forever War to find the stairway to humbleness.

The climb starts with a little bit of crack climbing and transitions to a little bit of offwidth. After the offwidth/chimney section in order to gain the last ledge, you'll have to execute a dicey move -- it's the crux, it's delicate, and it's unprotected. If that makes you uncomfortable, you can try the offwidth variation, but that would make the climb considerably harder.

If you're not a 5.12 - 5.13 climber in Vedauwoo and you're going to TR The Forever War, prepare to be humbled. Keep the ropes separated on your rappel so that they don't twist. I recommend a single rope rappel.

BTW, this didn't look like it had been climbed before. It was chossy, and vegetation was present in the cracks. If someone had the FA though, just drop a note.

Location

Just right of The Forever War, you'll see two parallel cracks in the back of the alcove.

Protection

1-2 pieces each of #1 - #4 Camalot. There's a large chickenhead above the offwidth section.

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