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Routes in Eagle Rock
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A-okay T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Angry Birds T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bag Lady, The V6 7A |
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Broken Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Corner Fingers T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Dead Wing T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eagle Brand T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Eagle Rock Dyno V6 7A |
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Go Through With It T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Gong Show (submitted as The Flake Route), The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hard To Tell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Midway Crisis T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Smells Like Chemo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Witchy Woman T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| GPS: | 41.3183, -105.3351 |
| FA: | Lucas Anderson & Sam Trautman [2008] |
| Page Views: | 813 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Sarah Meiser on Aug 5, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form & USFS press releases
Details
See more USFS updates and press releases here:
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/news….
Description
Begin with a short offwidth problem (a #6 is useful) to a ledge. Climb the steep hand and fist crack which gets tricky near the top and ends under a large roof. Then enjoy a sit down rest and prepare for the mental crux.
Hand traverse the irregular crack left under the roof with good feet. The climbing is not that tough here, and it can be well-protected, but the gear is a bit fiddly and takes a little figuring out. Make sure you have some smaller cams (BD 0.3) for the beginning of this part.
At the end of the traverse, heave yourself one way or another up onto the ledge. My partner did a beached whale, and I did some sort of slabby, heel hook maneuver.
Rap from bolted anchor.
Location
This is located on the western end of Eagle Rock's south face on a chunk of rock that is slightly detached from the main part of the formation. This is the left side of the crag as seen along the approach. Look for a crack in a left-facing corner under a large roof. It was painted with quite a bit of bird poop when I climbed it.
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