Dream of Wild Lizards

Dream of Wild Lizards is a beautiful natural 400’ extension of the classic Racing Lizards!

Also the best way to approach routes high up on the Lizard Gallery.

Climb the classic 3P 5.7 Racing Lizards. Instead of finishing up the slab at the arch on the 3rd pitch, continue out the left facing arch until it is possible to gain the left trending crack at the arch's end.

Follow this crack until you can surmount the ledge just above a mountain mohagany and build a trad anchor in the finger crack, 50’ down and left from where RL normally ends.

P4, 5.5-35m, Access pitch into the Lizard Gallery and rest of DOWL, continue up the finger crack 5.4, until the crack peters out and you can step left for more gear before the slab finish. About 50’ of run out 5.5 slab climbing with a secret #3 placement and one lead bolt are what guard the way to the large left facing orange corner above. This fun pitch was originally lead a handful of times without the lead bolt, (two bolt anchor). 

P5, 5.8-35m, Money pitch up the large corner. About half way through the pitch it is possible to step left out of the corner up fun blocky terrain to finger crack out a mini roof. (Original variation 5.6) Or stay true to the corner the entire way 5.8, both are wonderful variations, (two bolt anchor).

P6, 5.8-35m, Continue up the top of the corner through some bushes on easy 5.0 climbing until a 5.8 mantel protected by micro gear. Mantel on to a massive ledge and after 10 feet exit out and right on a fun 5.7 boulder problem through steppy right facing ledges to top of tower, (gear anchor).

(P5 & P6 can be combined into one long rope stretching 70m pitch)!

P7, 5.7-50’, From the top of the tower continue up 50’ of 5.7 climbing to final anchors of Tumble Weeds. Fun last mini worth while pitch! Be mindful of a death block guarding the bolted anchor!

Descent seven 35m abseils down TW!

Standard racker of cammers and widgets to #3 extra .3 size pieces are nice!