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Unnamed Bulge
V3,
Boulder,
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
FA: unknown
California
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> Castle Rock Loop
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Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK CLOSURES; The sandstone around Castle Rock is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet.
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged (like Donkey Dong and countless others) due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB AT CASTLE ROCK during or after rain.
Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
[Hide Photo] The right hand start hold drastically changes the difficulty. Pink: V8 start (described in guidebook), Blue: V7ish start, Yellow: V3 start. The grades aren't set in stone, these are just basic rang…
[Hide Comment] In the Golden State Bouldering guide the low start to this is listed as a V8 "Unnamed Bulge" (it doesn't list a higher start). There are three holds on the right, the high undercling, then below that a decent hueco, then below that the obvious starting hueco that is awful and polished. My opinion is that starting at the lowest is probably where the V8 comes from, as the first bump up is really hard. Starting one move in (on the middle hueco) felt V7 to me, but seemed a lot better ignoring the awkward difficulty of the first mini bump. Starting in the high undercling jug (and probably left hand a bit higher as well) is around V3, which is what this MP page was originally for.
I found a beta break for the low start that probably makes it V5/6, but I don't think most people will have the leg length to do it properly that way, so I wouldn't suggest changing the grade of the low. The low start as one really hard but very satisfying compression slap and lots of good foot options.
I found a beta break for the low start that probably makes it V5/6, but I don't think most people will have the leg length to do it properly that way, so I wouldn't suggest changing the grade of the low. The low start as one really hard but very satisfying compression slap and lots of good foot options.
V8 variation, but has the beta for the top version as well:
youtube.com/watch?v=nHe5ksC… Oct 27, 2023