All Locations > Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (v) Monument Area > (7) The Monument > Cornerstone Buttress

Sugar Daddy

Name: Sugar Daddy
Rating: 1.4

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

Routes in Cornerstone Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Captain Clusterfuk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Dr. Dolittle S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Mouthful of Marbles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Push Me, Pull Me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sugar Daddy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Wisdom Teeth S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Adam Macaluso, Jason Chinchen, 2019
Page Views:	1,152 total · 34/month
Shared By:	Jason Chinchen on Aug 2, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Kevin MP, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

There are many seasonal raptor closures with varying dates and specific boundaries. These generally effect The Monument, Kiss of the Lepers, Picnic Lunch Wall and/or Smith Rock group, and possibly elsewhere. These usually run from February to the beginning of August, but each closure is usually shorter than this, and is dependent on the birds' behavior. Check this site for details: smithrock.com/seasonal-clos…

Description

This climb starts out slightly dirty, only to lead to epic rock and climbing with great position and exposure.
Start by stepping off the boulder at the base of the climb with a high pocket, NOT from the ground (grittier). Clip the first three bolts on a left facing diagonal, then mantle and high step your way past the balancy crux into pockets. From here to the next bolt can be done direct or you can trend right over the bolt to the corner for a bit of a rest. It is dirty here in the middle, but soldier on and you will be rewarded with amazing rock above. Climb over a small roof feature and onto the headwall above.
Enjoy the rest of the route as holds appear when you need them on incredible rock unlike anything at Smith. End with easier climbing and interesting movement on bullet hard angular holds and horizontal ledges that lead you to the anchors.