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Oregon
> Central Oregon
> Smith Rock
> (v) Monument Area
> (7) The Monument
> Cornerstone Buttress
Sugar Daddy
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Cornerstone Buttress
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Captain Clusterfuk S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dr. Dolittle S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mouthful of Marbles S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Push Me, Pull Me S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sugar Daddy S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Wisdom Teeth S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft |
| FA: | Adam Macaluso, Jason Chinchen |
| Page Views: | 334 total · 124/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Chinchen on Aug 2, 2019 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: Golden Eagle Closures in the Monument Area Feb-Aug
Details
This is an annual closure that usually lasts from February to August. Check the website for regularly updates. This is what it said in 2017...
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
"The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area. All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed. Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 "Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park" Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy's Tower, The Monument, Anglin's Buttress and French Tent Rock."
Description
Start by stepping off the boulder at the base of the climb with a high pocket, or from the ground if you prefer to climb the first few feet of gravel.
Clip the first three bolts on a left facing diagonal, then mantle and high step your way past the balancy crux into pockets. From here to the next bolt can be done direct or you can trend right over the bolt to the corner for a bit of a rest. Climb over a small roof feature and onto the headwall above. Enjoy the rest of the route as holds appear when you need them on incredible rock unlike anything at Smith. End with easier climbing and interesting movement on bullet hard angular holds and horizontal ledges that lead you to the anchors.
Clip the first three bolts on a left facing diagonal, then mantle and high step your way past the balancy crux into pockets. From here to the next bolt can be done direct or you can trend right over the bolt to the corner for a bit of a rest. Climb over a small roof feature and onto the headwall above. Enjoy the rest of the route as holds appear when you need them on incredible rock unlike anything at Smith. End with easier climbing and interesting movement on bullet hard angular holds and horizontal ledges that lead you to the anchors.
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