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Little Birds

5.13-, Sport, 45 ft,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Matt Martinez, Austin Sobotka, July 2019
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 8 - Summit Crags > Ravens
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here. Details

Description

This thing may be short, but it is a giant. For sure one of the shortest and hardest routes at The Ravens. It takes the center of the orange streaked, upward swooping feature directly across from Swingset and Raven Maniac. The intro boulder clocks in at around V7 and takes you directly into a pigeon pose rest after clipping bolt three. Once your fingers feel ready, move up, clipping one more bolt before setting up for the second boulder somewhere in the V5 range with some incredible sequences and movement. Then you'll want to keep your head on and fight pump while pulling long, powerful moves on large holds. Route finishes with a cool run to the chains on lie backs to a victory jug. Although its hard to tell, the route hangs over almost 15 feet.

This route was done ground up on hooks. Austin and I took every fall (many) times and I'm confident the bolts are right where they need to be. 

Location

Starts on the giant ramp boulder across from Swingset and Raven Maniac

Protection

7 bolts to leavers

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Dustin crossing to set up for second crux
[Hide Photo] Dustin crossing to set up for second crux
The "move"
[Hide Photo] The "move"
Matt Martinez wrestling opening boulder
[Hide Photo] Matt Martinez wrestling opening boulder
The view
[Hide Photo] The view

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Iain Macdonald
Flagstaff/Tucson
[Hide Comment] Cool new test piece at the ravens. White slabs is pleased. Aug 2, 2019
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.13a
[Hide Comment] Matt's description of the route is pretty much spot-on; it's not a long route (by upper-mountain standards) but it packs a whole lot of climbing into its ~40ft. It's sort of like climbing at The Beach, but so, so much better.

Two potentially useful "tips": One) if you're fairly short, hanging the first draw from the slab might not be possible. Although it's not impossible to pull on to the route and then hang the draw, it's definitely recommended to have it clipped before pulling onto the climb (the first ~10ft is the hardest climbing on the route, and an unprotected fall could potentially send you and your belayer cannonballing down the belay slab - not fun). So, a stick clip is recommended if you can't reach the first bolt. Two) falling while clipping the second bolt is alright, but only if the belayer is super-attentive and doesn't weigh too much less than the climber. A hard catch is recommended. Bonus) a soft catch is preferred if the climber falls on the moves right before the fifth bolt.

Also, don't let this scare you away - as Matt wrote, we have both tested every fall (aside from an unprotected fall at the first bolt) and came out just fine. These are just tips to make those falls as comfy as possible.

Get your fingers warm, put your dancing shoes on, and climb this thang Aug 5, 2019
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
[Hide Comment] Looks like a stick clip for the second bolt might be in order or is there a good clipping hold? Aug 6, 2019
Matt martinez
Tucson, AZ
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] Having the second draw pre-hung is certainly helpful, but the path of travel on the first traverse makes having it stick clipped (top rope) very difficult as the path crosses the belayers rope. There is a “good” clipping stance level with the bolt that both I and Austin clipped from. I’ve also fallen going to the clipping hold and because the slab is angled AND about 2-3 feet from the wall, you end up falling on air. Granted, with the wrong belay anything could go wrong. I racked my brain deciding weather to move/chop the bolts and decided they were right where they needed to be. Considering permas for the first two bolts if this becomes trafficked. Aug 6, 2019
Dj telle
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] if you’re 6 ft tall this route is only like 5 moves then ? Sep 1, 2019
Bryanz
Arizona, Tucson
[Hide Comment] I believe the fa spelling is Sobotka Sep 1, 2019
Matt martinez
Tucson, AZ
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] If you’re 6’ you’re looking at a 4 move jog. 3 with the optional dyno. Just stick clip the chains honestly.

I never have, and never will care about spelling Austin’s last name correctly. But I went ahead and updated it. Thanks! Sep 1, 2019
Bryanz
Arizona, Tucson
[Hide Comment] Take it easy man, no need to get worked up over it. Sep 1, 2019
Matt martinez
Tucson, AZ
  5.13-
[Hide Comment] Haha whoops! My comment was soaked in sarcasm. I’m sincerely appreciative of the catch. The gratitude part was genuine. Scouts honor. Sep 1, 2019