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Little Birds
5.13-,
Sport, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
FA: Matt Martinez, Austin Sobotka, July 2019
Arizona
> Southern Arizona
> Mt Lemmon (Sant…
> Mt Lemmon (Cata…
> 8 - Summit Crags
> Ravens
> Raven C
> E Face
Access Issue: Potentially unavailable to climbing February through July if raptors are breeding here.
Details
This area is historically used by nesting falcons, hawks, owls or other raptors. Breeding season varies but is roughly February through July. Nesting raptors are protected by law.
If you aren't sure if raptors are breeding here, then listen and watch for defensive behavior such as screeching or diving (links to info). If raptors are breeding in this area please climb somewhere else and let other climbers know.
Pressures on wildlife can be immense and are multiplied by effects of climate change and pollutants. Choosing to climb away from nest sites reduces unnecessary stresses to the birds. Give these animals a chance to thrive.
More info here:
theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Description
This thing may be short, but it is a giant. For sure one of the shortest and hardest routes at The Ravens. It takes the center of the orange streaked, upward swooping feature directly across from Swingset and Raven Maniac. The intro boulder clocks in at around V7 and takes you directly into a pigeon pose rest after clipping bolt three. Once your fingers feel ready, move up, clipping one more bolt before setting up for the second boulder somewhere in the V5 range with some incredible sequences and movement. Then you'll want to keep your head on and fight pump while pulling long, powerful moves on large holds. Route finishes with a cool run to the chains on lie backs to a victory jug. Although its hard to tell, the route hangs over almost 15 feet.
This route was done ground up on hooks. Austin and I took every fall (many) times and I'm confident the bolts are right where they need to be.
Location
Starts on the giant ramp boulder across from Swingset and Raven Maniac
Protection
7 bolts to leavers
LA
Tucson, AZ
Two potentially useful "tips": One) if you're fairly short, hanging the first draw from the slab might not be possible. Although it's not impossible to pull on to the route and then hang the draw, it's definitely recommended to have it clipped before pulling onto the climb (the first ~10ft is the hardest climbing on the route, and an unprotected fall could potentially send you and your belayer cannonballing down the belay slab - not fun). So, a stick clip is recommended if you can't reach the first bolt. Two) falling while clipping the second bolt is alright, but only if the belayer is super-attentive and doesn't weigh too much less than the climber. A hard catch is recommended. Bonus) a soft catch is preferred if the climber falls on the moves right before the fifth bolt.
Also, don't let this scare you away - as Matt wrote, we have both tested every fall (aside from an unprotected fall at the first bolt) and came out just fine. These are just tips to make those falls as comfy as possible.
Get your fingers warm, put your dancing shoes on, and climb this thang Aug 5, 2019
Tucson
Tucson, AZ