Stegosaurus Butte-y

This route is comprised of excellent, highly featured, well-protected, granite crack climbing with a variety of styles and movement. It is very unique for the formation and area and in my humble opinion, an excellent adventure.

The route follows a series of cracks through 3 increasingly large, difficult, left trending roofs to a bolted anchor at the top. It can be done in 1-3 pitches depending on one’s comfort level with the grade and spacing of protection. On the first ascent, we climbed it in 2 pitches.

The first pitch follows the lovely right trending flake (10b) through the first, small roof, pulling through the left side. This leads to easier terrain past the old raptor nest underneath the 2nd, large, left trending roof. Work through a surprisingly good, well protected roof crack to easier terrain (11b). You can build an anchor anywhere above the 2nd roof or use the slung block. If you’ve had enough, you can rap from the block but if you want more, the 3rd roof offers a puzzling, 3D boulder problem and the crux of the route (11c). Continue up and left, following features and cracks skirting the overhanging chimney on its outside edge. Once you reach the left edge of the 3rd roof, step out right to a small sloping foot ledge and blindly paw at some features above to reach the bolted anchors. This series of moves is very exposed and is protected by some very small cams! EXCITING! 2 single rope rappels straight down gets you to the ground. Second rap anchor is directly below. 

This route has taken myself and a close group of friends years to piece together. Big thanks to Chris Hagen for many adventures, lots of scouting, and hard work. This would not have been possible without you. And to all the others who helped support the increasing obsession, thank you.  

There are features that look unstable, like the old raptor(?) nest under the 2nd roof, or the block under the 3rd roof, but I assure you, the rock is quite solid. The protection is quite ample and very good. I recall my exploratory leads allowed me to place gear almost every 4 or 5 feet so if this grade feels a bit out of reach for you, as it did for me, trust that you can protect it well. 

See approach to this area (The Goods)

Double rack of cams from teeny-tiny .1 to 3. Single 4 and set of nuts optional. Draws and at least 6 alpine draws to manage rope drag.

A single 70M (possibly a 60M) rope will get you up and down the route.