Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: July 25th 2019
Page Views: 106 total · 106/month
Shared By: Jeremy Luscher on Jul 29, 2019
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Trail and cliff-area closure through the end of 2018. Details in one of the photos here. Details

Description

This route is comprised of excellent, highly featured, well-protected, granite crack climbing with a variety of styles and movement. It is very unique for the formation and area and in my humble opinion, an excellent adventure.
The route follows a series of cracks through 3 increasingly large, difficult, left trending roofs to a bolted anchor at the top. It can be done in 1-3 pitches depending on one’s comfort level with the grade and spacing of protection. On the first ascent, we climbed it in 2 pitches.
The first pitch follows the lovely right trending flake (10b) through the first, small roof, pulling through the left side. This leads to easier terrain past the old raptor nest underneath the 2nd, large, left trending roof. Work through a surprisingly good, well protected roof crack to easier terrain (11b). You can build an anchor anywhere above the 2nd roof or use the slung block. If you’ve had enough, you can rap from the block but if you want more, the 3rd roof offers a puzzling, 3D boulder problem and the crux of the route (11c). Continue up and left, following features and cracks skirting the overhanging chimney on its outside edge. Once you reach the left edge of the 3rd roof, step out right to a small sloping foot ledge and blindly paw at some features above to reach the bolted anchors. This series of moves is very exposed and is protected by some very small cams! EXCITING! A 60M, partially free-hanging rappel gets you to the bottom.

This route has taken myself and a close group of friends years to piece together. There are features that look unstable, like the raptor nest under the 2nd roof, or the block under the 3rd roof, but I assure you, the rock is quite solid. The protection is quite ample and very good. I recall my exploratory leads allowed me to place gear almost every 4 or 5 feet so if this grade feels a bit out of reach for you, as it did for me, trust that you can protect it well. 

Note: this route is mostly protected by the rain due to the overhanging nature of the climb. There are some seeps, but otherwise can be climbed during times of light precipitation. The first ascent was done between showers! 

Location

This route is located on the eastern end of Stegosaurus Butte, the same formation the Fee Demo Wall is on. There are two approaches depending on the middle fork trail closure. If the trail is open, take the trail up river (east) to the base of the very obvious Fee Demo Wall. Walk the trail another few minutes crossing a couple small drainage bridges. Look for a faint path on the right that climbs into the forest steeply for 15 feet. You will know you are on the right path when you see a large log in the way with a split log ramp to get you over. Bushwhack towards the wall for 50 feet until you reconnect with the faint path. You will pass by old survey markers and enter into a magical mossy boulder field. Work your way up and through these boulders (be mindful not to destroy all the moss) until you reach a brushy talus field leading to a large rock gully that breaks the wall. Follow the wall left (east) and up hill hugging the wall until you find the obvious left facing, roofed corner!
*NOTE THAT CURRENTLY THE MIDDLE FORK TRAIL IS CLOSED DUE TO A LANDSLIDE AND DURING THE FIRST ASCENT AND PREVIOUS ATTEMPTS OVER THE PAST COUPLE OF YEARS, WE TOOK A LONGER APPROACH THAT WENT AROUND THE BACK SIDE OF THE FORMATION AND REQUIRES BUSHWHACKING AND ROUTE FINDING. PLEASE RESPECT THE TRAIL CLOSURE EVEN IF THE NORMAL APPROACH TURNS OFF BEFORE THE LANDSLIDE. THERE HAVE BEEN REPORTS OF RANGERS TICKETING PEOPLE WHO USE THE TRAIL ILLEGALLY. *

Protection

Double rack of cams from teeny-tiny .1 to 3. Single 4 and optional set of nuts. Draws and at least 6 alpine draws to manage rope drag.
  • **2 60M ROPES ARE MANDATORY TO GET OFF THE ROUTE!***

Photos

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