Type: Trad, TR, 130 ft
FA: Eric Enquist/Tony Ledin
Page Views: 413 total · 58/month
Shared By: Eric Enquist on Jul 28, 2019
Admins: Kris Gorny, chris tregge

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Access Issue: Temporary Peregrine Falcon access restrictions Details

Description

Rappel to a belay ledge just off of the water. The first 60 feet of the climb shares an 11- dihedral with a pre-existing route (name unknown). At the third bolt traverse right and gain a no hands ledge. Use under clings, side pulls, crimps, pinches, and mind bending movement to climb the bouldery and overhung arete.  At the fifth bolt bust left to gain the face, continue through a final face melting boulder problem until you receive an under cling knee bar rest. Find the ball nut or run it to the top... we recommend the ball nut.

If you climb the grade this route should not be missed, as it offers unique face climbing for the head.

Location

Located far north past “Poseidon Adventure.” Walk the trail toward Shovel point, the climb goes up the most prominent and slightly overhanging arete on the cliff facing Shovel Point.

Protection

Five bolts, singles to BD .5 and a #3. Trees for TR anchor or a nut, #1, and #2 to rappel your rope to the belay at the water.

Photos