Type: Sport, 1900 ft, 14 pitches
FA: Motto, Pellizzari, Piola and Robert
Page Views: 205 total · 43/month
Shared By: Eddie Taylor on Jul 27, 2019
Admins: Brice Pollock

You & This Route


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Description

This is at the top of the tick lists for most climbers who visit the valley. It is the "easiest" route that gets you to the top of Tsaranoro.  

A few words of advice:
  • make sure you have comfortable shoes
  • make sure both partners can climb 5.10s relatively quickly
  • You will be in the sun most if not all of the day, depending on how quick you climb and what time you start.
  • Tsaranoro has a pretty unique style so I would recommend a few practice routes before hopping on this.
  • A 60 m is way better then a 70 for efficiency.
P1: 5.9 55m 6 bolts
P2: 5.10a 55m 5 bolts
P3: 5.10b  50m 6 bolts
P4: 5.10d
P5: 5.10c
P6: 5.10c
P7: 5.11b (6c+) 5.11a obligitory move
P8: 5.11a really hard
P9: 5.10c
P10: 5.11d (7a) 1 move wonder
P11: 5.10b
P12: 5.11a
P13: 5.10b
P14: 5.11d (7a) hard, but well bolted

Location

Follow signs to Karomabony (sp?).  ~1 hour from tsarasoa

Protection

13 quickdraws, and 2 ropes

Descent

The descent is rather complicated, so make sure you top out before dark.  Rappelling is also an option, but there is a few traversing pitches.

After you top out you will continue straight and through a little patch of jungle.
You may see some rap rings (do not use these, they are an old descent) Instead you will see on your left a small canyon between 2 cliffs, go through it. After approximately 10 minutes of walking slightly uphill you will be on another rather flat area.  Keep walking until you see the cairins, they will lead you to the rappel.  One double rope rappel (maybe single with a 70 but I don't know...) will get you to the bottom.

Next, find the trail the crosses the jungle.  It will take you to the slabby formation directly south. Hike up the formation and then head left (east) for the descent eventually you will see cairins. Two hours later you will be at Tsarasoa.  I don't advise leaving gear at the base, the descent trail does not go past it.

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