Type: Sport, 722 ft (219 m), 5 pitches
FA: Yannick Gingras, Evan Harris, Vincent Larochelle, July 2019
Page Views: 1,323 total · 22/month
Shared By: Yannick Gingras on Jul 26, 2019
Admins: Braden Batsford, John Serjeantson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1, 13b, 50m, 5.9: start in front of the aspen patch. Go straight up the ramp passing two small bulges on the way.

P2, 12b, 35m, 5.8: go straight up following an obvious string of solid features.

P3 "The Traverse", 12b, 50m, 5.9: straight up, pass the roof at the very left edge, then slowly traverse right.  Go right and up, not up and right after the roof.   A slabby ramp leads to the belay on a great ledge.  Use long slings or suffer bad rope drag.

You should stop here unless you are the only party on the wall. The following pitches can be used to link into Cojones de Acero to top out and walk-off.

P4 "The Gravel Pit", 8b, 55m, 5.7: straight up on the slab, then veer right to stay on good rock. Lots of loose rock, so be extra careful or even stop before this pitch if there are parties on Iki Gai or Soleil the Soirée since these routes are directly in the fall line.

P5 "The Boulder Problem", 5b, 30m, 5.9: Cross the grassy ledge, go straight up, exit left around the bulge.  

You have two options for descent:

1) Single rope rap from P5, double rope rap from P4, then single rope raps on Iki Gai to the ground.

2) Single rope rap from P5, then double rope raps the way you came all the way to the ground.  When rapping P3, traverse higher than the bolts and use natural bulges as directionals.  You may want to clip a bolt or two towards the end of the traverse.  Don't worry if you slip and swing on the traverse, you can go all the way down to the slab and swing back left from there.

Location Suggest change

Halfway between Iki Gai and Persistence, right in from of an aspen patch.

Protection Suggest change

13 quickdraws, bolted anchors.

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