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Routes in Secret Garden
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Abyssos S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Achinos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Adolflahaut S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Apocalypse S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Baglamas S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ballos S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Bourre Mais Pas Pleine S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Bratsera S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Chien Jaune S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Crisis S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dirlanda S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Dogma S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Extra Secret S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Floodgates Part 1, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Floodgates, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Frapagalo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Full Job S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Half Job S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hyper S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ikariotikos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Kalolimnos S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Kaly Diva S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Khaos (Stigma Extension) S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Linsoute Nable S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Magioros S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Margarita S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Markoutsi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mayumba S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mayumba Extension S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Melodrama S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Narcissus S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Nissos Pita S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pantremenos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Parthenon S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Play Buzuki S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Pomponpidoux S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Princesse Marine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Puffa Puffa Puffa S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Remetzo S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Ricci di Mare S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Ricounet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Rooflianos S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Route 69 S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sam Suffit S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Savina S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Silence of the Abyss S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Stigma S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sunshine Boy David S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Syrtaki Lessons S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Tobias' Birthday Present S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tricky Katie S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tzivaeri S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ymer S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | A Theodoropoulos, 2013 |
| Page Views: | 963 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Stevens on Jul 26, 2019 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Luke Bertelsen, Charles Yang, Loren P |
Description
Some funky tufa moves for the first 3 bolts get you to a stance below the steep wall. Some thin moves gain wonderful pockets and a great jug-flake. Get a good shake here and enter the long crux, which involves wonderfully technical climbing with a very tough move off of a left hand sloper. The crux ends at a perfect right hand, full pad crimp and then steep jugs take you to a no hands rest. The last 30 feet or so is pure icing on the cake; athletic endurance climbing on pockets and a single tufa at the end. Careful of the final 5 feet, as the tufa gets very thin!
I found the bolt placements through the crux to be very poor. I had to extend draws through the crux to be able to clip from good holds instead of making hard moves and clipping after.
The RockFax guidebook says that the crux sloper hold broke further in 2014, making things a bit more difficult. Conditions and height play a big part in the crux as well. Crisp temps and/or height will make things significantly easier. Being short and/or warm conditions will make things the opposite of easier. Don't turn into a Kaly Diva when you fall over and over again...
3 Comments