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Satan's Choice

5.10b, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 51 votes
FA: A Lemieux, A Mollard, 7/2019
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Hellgate Cliffs > Tower One
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: As for all Hellgate areas DetailsDrop down

Overly Hyped Description

Have you ever wondered why this particular chunk of Tower One has been ignored by at least two generations of choss connoisseurs? Is it because it looks like a late-stage game of limestone Jenga? Make Satan's Choice to find out...

Begin by untangling yourself from the grabby patches of scrub oak which guard the base of a broad pillar then scamper up a moderate face past 4 bolts to reach a cruxy bulge. Pick one of three options (so far), dispatch the obstacle, and flop down on top of the pillar, taking note of the 5th bolt a ways to your left (long runner preferred here).
Wander leftward across a low-angled rippled face (something something long runner) aiming for an intimidating stack of black roofs. Throw the mandatory sign of the horns and embark on a long section of steep stemming and delicate pulling on blocky holds, eventually reaching a lower-angled section of sharp fins which guard the anchors.

Feedback on the grade is all over the place so far, from 5.8 (come on Darren, this isn't the Gunks) to 11a. You've been warned.

CAUTION: This is a new route and despite extensive cleaning, loose rock should still be expected (until 2029, give or take a few years). Everything within reach of the bolt line has been tested (banged on) but if you wander too far you may end up in Chosslandia.
Be especially careful on TR with the belayer's side of the rope catching blocks.

Location

The route starts a few feet left of the black rock gully which houses Rezin Scraper. It tackles a broad pillar located right where the approach trail flattens out and starts following the base of the tower.
If you go too far left you'll be climbing Armed and Hammered or, gasp, Cheap Thrills.

Protection

14 fat bolts to chains. Bring 2 or 3 long runners for bolts 6-8 (at least 6 & 7) or suffer from rope drag (bolt placements were dictated by rock quality).
70 m rope mandatory, the anchor is higher than on Rezin Scraper and down-climbing the bottom would be sketchy.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route. Traverse slightly left off initial pillar, across slab and into steeper terrain.
[Hide Photo] The route. Traverse slightly left off initial pillar, across slab and into steeper terrain.
Eric on Satan's Choice
[Hide Photo] Eric on Satan's Choice
B. calls upon the Dark Master for strength during the cruxy section.
[Hide Photo] B. calls upon the Dark Master for strength during the cruxy section.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Alex Lemieux
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] An instant classic! Super fun stemming moves and closely spaced bolts. Jul 26, 2019
Kyle Harmer
Cottonwood heights, UT
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This line is fantastic. The black rock on the second half of the line is stellar. The stemming is a riot and not to be missed. Way to go on the vision and effort to gift this to the community. The bolts and hangers are super beefy. Jul 26, 2019
jawshoe uhh
Sandy, UTAH
 
[Hide Comment] Someone might want to glue the bored out rock underneath the 4th or 5th bolt at the "flop down" pillar, and left anchor bolt. You can see craters/daylight underneath those bolts, might shorten the lifespan. Kudos to the FA team, the route was as clean as anything else at this area. Jul 27, 2019
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
  5.10
[Hide Comment] The outer 1/8" to 1/4" of surface rock has a tendency to be brittle and shatter around the bit when drilling (or when tightening the bolt), making that cone-shaped hole you can see under the hanger. I found it really hard to avoid when drilling in the cleanest rock. The bolts are 1/2 x 3-3/4 SS so longevity isn't a concern but I agree it doesn't look ideal and will probably be addressed. Jul 30, 2019
Britt Black
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] Nice work Alex and Alexi! This is a fun route. I love the stemming. Aug 4, 2019
[Hide Comment] Really good route with lots of unusual fun movement. Didn't find any looseness worth mentioning. Nice addition guys; keep up the good work please. The crux down low (10.d IMO) can be easily skirted making the route more mid 5.10. Aug 4, 2019
[Hide Comment] Giant bolts. Fun stemming. Helmutgate classic. Jun 25, 2020
[Hide Comment] Quicklinks added Aug 2020 for easy lowering. Sep 23, 2020
Jeff Germain
Sonora, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] A lil chossy 2/3 of the way up. Wouldn’t say 10b, more like 5.9+ in my opinion. Fun though. That 5th bolt is way the hell out left lol Jul 8, 2021