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Routes in 6-Franosch
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Almost-Right Wide Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Central Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central Grooves S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Central Left Face TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Central Right Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central Scramble S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far Left Pine Plus TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Left alongside Right Gully S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a C0 |
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Left Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Gully Edge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Gully Shelf TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Left Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13 |
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Right alongside Right Gully TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Ridge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Right Scramble TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Urnas' Edge TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 504 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 24, 2019 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
If only the two crux sequences were longer. Pumpy lower crux and thoughtful tricky top crux.
Top crux can be done on its own by starting from the top boulder of the route Right Scramble -- traverse right onto face.
Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.
Up the dirt to reach bottom of rock. Head for dead tree to right under steep overhang. Right-ward over tree, then diagonal left up through overhang.
Next roughly straight up the slab about 6 ft left of the bolts for ??
. . . (Easier if go more left closer to the gully, but does not offer perceptual warmup for top crux).
Aim for small shallow broken dihedral in top steep section. But then move Left from that to join the left edge Arete where it curves left and becomes a bit less than vertical.
. . . (? Variation : project 5.11? Finish up the shallow broken dihedral).
Crux is getting over to, then established over the edge of the arete.
Finish directly up it to reach the summit of the Silverhorn.
Top-Roping: Obvious top anchor (shared with the route "Right Scramble") is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for this route, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.
. . . (Or the SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Top crux can be done on its own by starting from the top boulder of the route Right Scramble -- traverse right onto face.
Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.
Up the dirt to reach bottom of rock. Head for dead tree to right under steep overhang. Right-ward over tree, then diagonal left up through overhang.
Next roughly straight up the slab about 6 ft left of the bolts for ??
. . . (Easier if go more left closer to the gully, but does not offer perceptual warmup for top crux).
Aim for small shallow broken dihedral in top steep section. But then move Left from that to join the left edge Arete where it curves left and becomes a bit less than vertical.
. . . (? Variation : project 5.11? Finish up the shallow broken dihedral).
Crux is getting over to, then established over the edge of the arete.
Finish directly up it to reach the summit of the Silverhorn.
Top-Roping: Obvious top anchor (shared with the route "Right Scramble") is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for this route, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.
. . . (Or the SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier.
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
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