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Routes in 6-Franosch
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Almost-Right Wide Gully TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Central Crack TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central Grooves S,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Central Left Face TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Central Right Face TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Central Scramble S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Far Left Pine Plus TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Left alongside Right Gully S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a C0 |
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Left Face TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Left Gully Edge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Left Gully Shelf TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Left Scramble T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b PG13 |
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Right alongside Right Gully TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Right Ridge TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Right Scramble TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Urnas' Edge TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | TR, 85 ft (26 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 490 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jul 23, 2019 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
More interesting than it looks. The climbing is mostly not in the dirty gully, rather stemming across it, or above its right side.
Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.
. . Note that while it's safer (from rockfall) to belay top-rope from higher platform about 20 ft south from Silverhorn platform, it's fairly intimidating for a climber to be lowered from there down the gully (even though that might save time). Likely better to have a more experienced climber rappel to get the rope down, then have the less experienced climber(s) waiting at the bottom to start from there. Then the belayer can get to the high platform by a different route (e.g. upper part of Left Scramble).
First get up through the grass + dirt to reach bottom of rock. Up the gully using rock on both sides. Perhaps a couple of overhanging traverse moves just after passing the dead tree. Above this, avoid the dirt, instead stay on rock above right side of gully. Near the top, step across dirt easily onto a rock on left side. Then a last big step up across dirt onto the top boulder (under Silverhorn summit overhang) and a thoughtful move up onto boulder's flat top.
Recommended finish to wonderful viewpoint: Continue by hiking up west under the overhang, then step right around to the west side of the SIlverhorn summit knob, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top.
. (This finish is not protected by top-rope belay, so if this final scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier).
Top-Roping: Obvious top anchor is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for Right Scramble, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.
. . . (The SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier).
Another idea for a top anchor is to use long slings or static rope around a rock horn just above the top boulder of this route (below the overhang of the Silverhorn summit knob). Perhaps the belayer can stand on the obvious wide ledge about 25 ft below left from the Silverhorn knob. The problems with the belayer standing at near the bottom of the route are increased exposure to rockfall hazard for the belayer, and rope-stretch impact for the fallling climber.
Descent: Can down-climb the upper part of the route "Left Scramble" (4th class), or traverse horizontal south from the Silverhorn about fifty feet or so, then rappel from the top anchor for the route "Left Face". Reaching this anchor requires down-climbing 3rd class with exposure. There are two facultative bolts which could be used to help protect this down-climb. One is just three feet horizontal climber's left from the anchor, the other is 15-20 feet above climber's left from the anchor on the side of a small rock ridge.
. . . (Another option is to hike/bushwhack West to the main hiking trail, then walk easily North down that (likely with a shortcut scramble down to the highway by the NW corner of Silver Lake then a short walk N along the road to finish at the snack bar).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Find the steep gully just right of the bottom of the non-steep diagonal which is the base of the upper part of sector 6 Franosch -- and just left of the Left Chimney route (1 bolt) in lower part of sector 8.
. . Note that while it's safer (from rockfall) to belay top-rope from higher platform about 20 ft south from Silverhorn platform, it's fairly intimidating for a climber to be lowered from there down the gully (even though that might save time). Likely better to have a more experienced climber rappel to get the rope down, then have the less experienced climber(s) waiting at the bottom to start from there. Then the belayer can get to the high platform by a different route (e.g. upper part of Left Scramble).
First get up through the grass + dirt to reach bottom of rock. Up the gully using rock on both sides. Perhaps a couple of overhanging traverse moves just after passing the dead tree. Above this, avoid the dirt, instead stay on rock above right side of gully. Near the top, step across dirt easily onto a rock on left side. Then a last big step up across dirt onto the top boulder (under Silverhorn summit overhang) and a thoughtful move up onto boulder's flat top.
Recommended finish to wonderful viewpoint: Continue by hiking up west under the overhang, then step right around to the west side of the SIlverhorn summit knob, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top.
. (This finish is not protected by top-rope belay, so if this final scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier).
Top-Roping: Obvious top anchor is on the SouthEast side of the summit of the Silverhorn peaklet (obvious knob above right from this sector) -- two bolts connected by chain with ramshorn lower-off. The Silverhorn peaklet can be reached from the top of the upper main wall of this sector by hiking north across slope to the overhang on the south side of the summit, then hike up left, then step right around to its west side, and scramble up (3rd - 4th class) 10-15 feet to its top. Notice two facultative bolts on SW side of summit knob, which could be used for security to reach the top anchor for Right Scramble, which is across on the SE side. Or if this scramble feels unsafe, can hike further north along W side of Silverhorn summit ridge, then get up onto the ridge easier.
. . . (The SIlverhorn summit could also be reached by leading certain routes in sector 8 Moynier).
Another idea for a top anchor is to use long slings or static rope around a rock horn just above the top boulder of this route (below the overhang of the Silverhorn summit knob). Perhaps the belayer can stand on the obvious wide ledge about 25 ft below left from the Silverhorn knob. The problems with the belayer standing at near the bottom of the route are increased exposure to rockfall hazard for the belayer, and rope-stretch impact for the fallling climber.
Descent: Can down-climb the upper part of the route "Left Scramble" (4th class), or traverse horizontal south from the Silverhorn about fifty feet or so, then rappel from the top anchor for the route "Left Face". Reaching this anchor requires down-climbing 3rd class with exposure. There are two facultative bolts which could be used to help protect this down-climb. One is just three feet horizontal climber's left from the anchor, the other is 15-20 feet above climber's left from the anchor on the side of a small rock ridge.
. . . (Another option is to hike/bushwhack West to the main hiking trail, then walk easily North down that (likely with a shortcut scramble down to the highway by the NW corner of Silver Lake then a short walk N along the road to finish at the snack bar).
warning: The rock on and near this route has not been climbed much yet, and some of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.
Protection
Top-Rope anchor is two bolts connected by chain, with ramshorn (pigs tail) lower-off.
. . (Bolt studs are 2.75 inch x 0.375 inch wedge expansion bolts, 304 Stainless steel.
. . . upper hanger is 304 Stainless, lower hanger and ramshorn/pigstail are 316 Stainless.
. . . Chain and quick-links are Plated steel. All anchor hardware installed 2019).
No fixed hardware installed for intermediate lead protection as of 2019.
Protection for Trad leading unknown and likely inadequate.
For ideas about how to set up Top-Roping, see the Area page for this sector -- also the note above on this page.
. . (Bolt studs are 2.75 inch x 0.375 inch wedge expansion bolts, 304 Stainless steel.
. . . upper hanger is 304 Stainless, lower hanger and ramshorn/pigstail are 316 Stainless.
. . . Chain and quick-links are Plated steel. All anchor hardware installed 2019).
No fixed hardware installed for intermediate lead protection as of 2019.
Protection for Trad leading unknown and likely inadequate.
For ideas about how to set up Top-Roping, see the Area page for this sector -- also the note above on this page.
Photos
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