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Dark Matter

5.13a/b PG13, Sport, 640 ft (194 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 3 votes
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, July 9 2019
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Mt Charleston > Kyle Canyon > Universal Wall > Left Side
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Dark Matter...

...is a demanding and super high quality new 6 pitch sport route on the North Face of the Universal Wall. Two very tough pitches (3rd and 6th) are seperated with awesome, sustained 12- level climbing. The vast majority of the rock is utterly bomber but as with any new route always be a little heads up! Wear a helmet, especially on your first time up it. Also, although it is entirely protected with bolts be aware that some easier sections on the route will likely feel quite adventurous.

-An 80 meter rope is mandatory as several of the pitches are huge
-Every belay has a two bolt anchor and an easy rap set up
-Goes in the shade around 11am during the summer

Pitch 1 --- 5.12a (10bolts, ~35 meters) Start off of the top of a small boulder against the wall. Climb up through grey rock turning blue and yellow to a crux getting to and over a 3 ft roof. Amazing easy chert climbing takes you to the ledge, belay off of a tree with a rap anchor.

Pitch 2 --- 5.11b (8 bolts, ~22 meters) Start 10 feet left of the tree on the ledge up great, tricky low angle rock to a belay at the base of the big blue streak. Be especially mindful of loose rock as you approach the anchor.

Pitch 3 --- 5.13a (14 bolts, ~37 meters) The crux. Several V4-5 boulder problems separated with good rests. Thin at times, thuggy at times  - an awesome pitch that just keeps going! Generally superb rock quality, especially in the second half.

Pitch 4 --- 12a (8 bolts, ~22 meters) Impeccable limestone slab trending up and right. A great warm up for the 6th pitch. Short crux section. Very comfy belay at the end of this pitch.

Pitch 5 --- 5.11d (10 bolts, ~26 meters) A little boulder problem off of the belay followed by sustained climbing to another bulge crux up high.

Pitch 6 --- 5.13a (13 bolts, ~40 meters) Impossibly thin, heartbreaker slab crux on perfect rock! The difficulty eases off after an obvious no hands stance several bolts above the business but be mindful of loose rock. Belay in a small (loose) corridor.

Rappel the route with an 80 meter rope. From the top of the crux pitch (pitch 3) you can rap straight down to a nice rap anchor to avoid the traversing nature of the crux), but it’s CRUCIALLY IMPORTANT to start a healthy swing as you rap, as it is overhanging and you will end up in space if you don’t swing as you rappel in order to reach the rap anchor and ledge. Once you reach the ledge at the top of pitch one it is possible to walk off by traversing to the climbers left.

Location

Start off of a boulder against the North Face (see topo), look for a line of stainless bolts above you leading up and through a 3 ft roof. 

Protection

80 meter cord mandatory. 15 draws. Bring one or two longer slings for a couple of the bolts on traverses etc.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Topo for Dark Matter
[Hide Photo] Topo for Dark Matter
Joey L Redpointing Crux Pitch 3 of Dark Matter (5.13a/b)
[Hide Photo] Joey L Redpointing Crux Pitch 3 of Dark Matter (5.13a/b)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is a fantastic route, particularly if you can catch it with chalk. Second pitch, and the opening bolts of the third pitch are a bit chossy, but otherwise the rock is very good. Although some friends disagreed, I far preferred it to the multi pitch 13s on the Imagination Wall. Third pitch is a full value journey, with multiple pumpy cruxes, and the difficulties on the sixth pitch are thin, but short lived. Excellent contribution Jonathan! May 18, 2021
Joey Louis
Las Vegas, NV
  5.13a/b PG13
[Hide Comment] P6 is quite thin lol, kinda uncharacteristic but rad Jul 23, 2023