Type: Sport, 640 ft (194 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Jonathan Siegrist, July 9 2019
Page Views: 980 total · 59/month
Shared By: Jonathan Siegrist on Jul 22, 2019
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Dark Matter...

...is a demanding and super high quality new 6 pitch sport route on the North Face of the Universal Wall. Two very tough pitches (3rd and 6th) are seperated with awesome, sustained 12- level climbing. The vast majority of the rock is utterly bomber but as with any new route always be a little heads up! Wear a helmet, especially on your first time up it. Also, although it is entirely protected with bolts be aware that some easier sections on the route will likely feel quite adventurous.

-An 80 meter rope is mandatory as several of the pitches are huge
-Every belay has a two bolt anchor and an easy rap set up
-Goes in the shade around 11am during the summer

Pitch 1 --- 5.12a (10bolts, ~35 meters) Start off of the top of a small boulder against the wall. Climb up through grey rock turning blue and yellow to a crux getting to and over a 3 ft roof. Amazing easy chert climbing takes you to the ledge, belay off of a tree with a rap anchor.

Pitch 2 --- 5.11b (8 bolts, ~22 meters) Start 10 feet left of the tree on the ledge up great, tricky low angle rock to a belay at the base of the big blue streak. Be especially mindful of loose rock as you approach the anchor.

Pitch 3 --- 5.13a (14 bolts, ~37 meters) The crux. Several V4-5 boulder problems separated with good rests. Thin at times, thuggy at times  - an awesome pitch that just keeps going! Generally superb rock quality, especially in the second half.

Pitch 4 --- 12a (8 bolts, ~22 meters) Impeccable limestone slab trending up and right. A great warm up for the 6th pitch. Short crux section. Very comfy belay at the end of this pitch.

Pitch 5 --- 5.11d (10 bolts, ~26 meters) A little boulder problem off of the belay followed by sustained climbing to another bulge crux up high.

Pitch 6 --- 5.13a (13 bolts, ~40 meters) Impossibly thin, heartbreaker slab crux on perfect rock! The difficulty eases off after an obvious no hands stance several bolts above the business but be mindful of loose rock. Belay in a small (loose) corridor.

Rappel the route with an 80 meter rope. From the top of the crux pitch (pitch 3) you can rap straight down to a nice rap anchor to avoid the traversing nature of the crux), but it’s CRUCIALLY IMPORTANT to start a healthy swing as you rap, as it is overhanging and you will end up in space if you don’t swing as you rappel in order to reach the rap anchor and ledge. Once you reach the ledge at the top of pitch one it is possible to walk off by traversing to the climbers left.

Location

Start off of a boulder against the North Face (see topo), look for a line of stainless bolts above you leading up and through a 3 ft roof. 

Protection

80 meter cord mandatory. 15 draws. Bring one or two longer slings for a couple of the bolts on traverses etc.

Photos

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