Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Sport, 640 ft (194 m), 6 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Jonathan Siegrist, July 9 2019|
|Page Views:||980 total · 59/month|
|Shared By:||Jonathan Siegrist on Jul 22, 2019|
-An 80 meter rope is mandatory as several of the pitches are huge
-Every belay has a two bolt anchor and an easy rap set up
-Goes in the shade around 11am during the summer
Pitch 1 --- 5.12a (10bolts, ~35 meters) Start off of the top of a small boulder against the wall. Climb up through grey rock turning blue and yellow to a crux getting to and over a 3 ft roof. Amazing easy chert climbing takes you to the ledge, belay off of a tree with a rap anchor.
Pitch 2 --- 5.11b (8 bolts, ~22 meters) Start 10 feet left of the tree on the ledge up great, tricky low angle rock to a belay at the base of the big blue streak. Be especially mindful of loose rock as you approach the anchor.
Pitch 3 --- 5.13a (14 bolts, ~37 meters) The crux. Several V4-5 boulder problems separated with good rests. Thin at times, thuggy at times - an awesome pitch that just keeps going! Generally superb rock quality, especially in the second half.
Pitch 4 --- 12a (8 bolts, ~22 meters) Impeccable limestone slab trending up and right. A great warm up for the 6th pitch. Short crux section. Very comfy belay at the end of this pitch.
Pitch 5 --- 5.11d (10 bolts, ~26 meters) A little boulder problem off of the belay followed by sustained climbing to another bulge crux up high.
Pitch 6 --- 5.13a (13 bolts, ~40 meters) Impossibly thin, heartbreaker slab crux on perfect rock! The difficulty eases off after an obvious no hands stance several bolts above the business but be mindful of loose rock. Belay in a small (loose) corridor.
Rappel the route with an 80 meter rope. From the top of the crux pitch (pitch 3) you can rap straight down to a nice rap anchor to avoid the traversing nature of the crux), but it’s CRUCIALLY IMPORTANT to start a healthy swing as you rap, as it is overhanging and you will end up in space if you don’t swing as you rappel in order to reach the rap anchor and ledge. Once you reach the ledge at the top of pitch one it is possible to walk off by traversing to the climbers left.