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Pesce D'Aprile

5.9, Trad, 560 ft (170 m), 5 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
FA: Mike Kosterlitz, Gian Piero Motti, Ugo Manera, Guido Morello and Roberto Bianco on March 31st, 1973
International > Europe > Italy > Valle dell' Orco > Torre di Aimonin

Description

P1 5.5: Head up but traverse right on easy ground to an intimidating left facing dihedral. You'll pass a bolted anchor in whitish rock just before getting to the darker dihedral. You can clip an old pin at the base and then launch up the steep right wall of the dihedral to an anchor up right around the outside corner of the dihedral right wall.

P2 5.4: Traverse right and down a little aiming for a short left facing corner. Move up into the corner and squeeze up through where it narrows to a bolted belay above.

P3 5.8: From the belay, head right clipping a bolt and engaging a right facing flake that accepts fingers. Follow this steeply for 20' where the difficulty eases then work up and right to a ledge with small bushes. There is a rap anchor here you can belay at or else another anchor with two bolts and no hardware 20 feet right.

P4 5.9: Head up and right into the obvious left facing corner. Follow the corner nearly to its too until an escape up and right to a rap anchor on its right arete is found. Belay here or up and right 20' at a bolt anchor connected with that.

P5 5.7: Head up past the tat bolt anchor via a nice crack that eventually gives way to a dirt trough and a final tat bolt anchor.

We descended via a rap anchor up and left from the final P5 anchor. This can be reached by thrashing up and over through bushes. 2 double-70m rope raps got us to the ground. The 1st rap needed most of the 70m, the second closer to 60m.

Location

You'll see a bolt on the lower left piece of slab where the trail meets the cliff, this is _not_ the start. Head 10m or so uphill to the left to find the easy terrain of the 1st pitch.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3 inches.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ronda mid way up the 4th pitch of Pesce D'Aprile.
[Hide Photo] Ronda mid way up the 4th pitch of Pesce D'Aprile.
The start of Pesce D'Aprile.
[Hide Photo] The start of Pesce D'Aprile.
Ronda just past the difficulties of the 3rd pitch of Pesce D'Aprile.
[Hide Photo] Ronda just past the difficulties of the 3rd pitch of Pesce D'Aprile.
Ronda starting the last pitch of Pesce D'Aprile from the rap anchor.
[Hide Photo] Ronda starting the last pitch of Pesce D'Aprile from the rap anchor.