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> Blindspot Buttress
Kaleidoscope
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.4 from 7 votes
Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | T. Hobbs, R. Ziegler, 7/2019. TD |
Page Views: | 1,314 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Rick Ziegler on Jul 14, 2019 · Updates |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Pitch 1 starts about 100 feet left of Gold Digger using a thin crack in a flake. This moderate crack takes finger size gear until seaming out after ~45 feet. Bolts protect slabby moves and continue to a leftward roof traverse. 5.11a. 8 bolts, gear to #1 camalot.
Pitch 2 steps right off the belay, then up and slightly right to a steep crack. Follow this to a bolt protected mantle onto the arete. 2 more bolts protect the crux moves. 5.11b. 6 bolts, gear to #3 camalot.
Pitch 3 follows easy, broken ground to a bolt. Then follow the long corner for about 50m. This leads to a mussy hook anchor in a corner. Do not belay here! This anchor is the last pitch of Gold Digger anchor and will be used when rappelling. Instead clip a bolt left and use a 2 bolt anchor on a small, scenic ledge. 4 bolts, gear to #3 (doubles of #2 optional). 5.9
Pitch 4 follows bolts up a tricky slab into a low angle, left facing corner. This steepens into overhanging jugs, eventually giving way to a ledge. Continue up a moderate chimney to a sloping ledge. The rappel anchor is at the right edge of this ledge. 5.11c. 11 bolts, gear to #3.
Rappel with 5 raps using a single 70m. The first rappel returns you to the Gold Digger anchor near the P3 belay. The second rap uses an intermediate anchor on a ledge to the right of P3 corner. From here, rappel the route.
Pitch 2 steps right off the belay, then up and slightly right to a steep crack. Follow this to a bolt protected mantle onto the arete. 2 more bolts protect the crux moves. 5.11b. 6 bolts, gear to #3 camalot.
Pitch 3 follows easy, broken ground to a bolt. Then follow the long corner for about 50m. This leads to a mussy hook anchor in a corner. Do not belay here! This anchor is the last pitch of Gold Digger anchor and will be used when rappelling. Instead clip a bolt left and use a 2 bolt anchor on a small, scenic ledge. 4 bolts, gear to #3 (doubles of #2 optional). 5.9
Pitch 4 follows bolts up a tricky slab into a low angle, left facing corner. This steepens into overhanging jugs, eventually giving way to a ledge. Continue up a moderate chimney to a sloping ledge. The rappel anchor is at the right edge of this ledge. 5.11c. 11 bolts, gear to #3.
Rappel with 5 raps using a single 70m. The first rappel returns you to the Gold Digger anchor near the P3 belay. The second rap uses an intermediate anchor on a ledge to the right of P3 corner. From here, rappel the route.
Location
Located about 25 minutes from the parking for Scheelite Canyon. Route gets sun from ~1030 until 6pm during the summer. Follow trail as for Blindspot but rather than scrambling to Blindspot, continue up use trail to the base of Gold Digger (massive left facing corner). Kaleidoscope starts about 100 feet left of Gold Digger.
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