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Routes in 04. Air Spire
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Aimless Foreshadowing T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Air T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Chucklehead Crack (aka Spike's Crack) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Littlefinger's Coup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moss Man T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Phallus in Wonderland T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Return of the Chucklehead's T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown (The Line over Lucy?) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 90 ft (27 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 974 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Chip Bush on Jul 14, 2019 |
| Admins: | Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
Road side (west face) of Air Spire, this 2 pitch summit line begins on a low angle ramp in a left facing dihedral (easy 5th class).
1st pitch (~40ft): Ample protection in the piney crack system brings you past a pine tree on the left and up to a ledge on the right with a slingable boulder. This is the belay stance. Could probably also be done with several crack variations right of the ramp for a more difficult direct start on the 1st pitch.
2nd pitch (~45-50ft): From belay boulder move right onto the ledge and begin in a finger sized crack in the middle of the face. Surmount this bulge and gain clean but licheny 5.6 climbing on solid rock to the top out. Climb the face for the best movement, placing gear in the left crack. Top out and set belay off another slingable boulder. Rap off of chains for Phallus in Wonderland.
This climb seems to be one of the easiest ways to gain the top of Air Spire.
(I'll add pics next time I'm at the bluff!)
1st pitch (~40ft): Ample protection in the piney crack system brings you past a pine tree on the left and up to a ledge on the right with a slingable boulder. This is the belay stance. Could probably also be done with several crack variations right of the ramp for a more difficult direct start on the 1st pitch.
2nd pitch (~45-50ft): From belay boulder move right onto the ledge and begin in a finger sized crack in the middle of the face. Surmount this bulge and gain clean but licheny 5.6 climbing on solid rock to the top out. Climb the face for the best movement, placing gear in the left crack. Top out and set belay off another slingable boulder. Rap off of chains for Phallus in Wonderland.
This climb seems to be one of the easiest ways to gain the top of Air Spire.
(I'll add pics next time I'm at the bluff!)
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