Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft (364 m), 11 pitches
FA: Mike Clark & Rick Daday, July 1973
Page Views: 655 total · 17/month
Shared By: Matt Callahan on Jul 13, 2019
Admins: L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Jordan and I climbed the west tower's southeast ridge on July 4th 2019. This route offers moderate, high quality climbing roughly comparable to solva buttress in difficulty and is probably the easiest way up the west tower from the south. We had no route information and our description likely varied from the first ascent nearly half a century ago, but who knows? In any case, I recommend repeating this climb.

First 2 pitches follow mountaineers route on main tower

P1 climb blocky terrain to base of gully 5- 50m

P2 climb gully, then walk up and left 5- 60m

P3 walk left to base of ridge (class 2) then up ledgy terrain 5.6 100m

P4 terrain steepens slightly, finished on delightful 5.1 handcrack 5.7 55m

P5 climb up hand crack in corner. Really fun but careful of hollow flake on left part way up. Went left to finish pitch, but straight up goes too. 5.8 40m

P6 climb up corner/groove to regain ridge then continue up. Groove is dirtier than previous and subsequent climbing on ridge. 5.8 60m Continuing straight up is apparently no harder than 5.8 also.

P7 triple chimneys. First two are easy, third has a block on top with wide 5.9 moves to get around. You can avoid last chimney by traversing right for an easier pitch. 60m

P8-10 exposed, fun, but licheny ridge climbing 5-

P11 short traverse around North side of summit class 4 with a snow patch when we did it. Belay just north of summit and you're there.

Descent: rap Foggels Vischer and continue rapping skiers left back to the glacial bench or rap to notch between west and midget, climb midget (5- 60m), 1 60 rap with a short down scramble to main tower ridge and descend mountaineers route.

Protection

Standard rack. #5 would protect the crux chimney well but not necessary.

Photos