Type: Trad, Alpine, 1200 ft, 11 pitches
FA: Probably Svenson et al. 1973
Page Views: 159 total · 25/month
Shared By: Matt Callahan on Jul 13, 2019
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Jordan and I climbed the west tower's southeast ridge on July 4th 2019. This route offers moderate, high quality climbing roughly comparable to solva buttress in difficulty and is probably the easiest way up the west tower from the south. I recommend repeating this climb.

First 2 pitches follow mountaineers route on main tower
P1 climb blocky terrain to base of gully 5- 50m
P2 climb gully, then walk up and left 5- 60m
P3 walk left to base of ridge (class 2) then up ledgy terrain 5.6 100m
P4 terrain steepens slightly, finished on delightful 5.1 handcrack 5.7 55m
P5 climb up hand crack in corner. Really fun but careful of hollow flake on left part way up. Went left to finish pitch, may have been better to stay on ridge proper. 5.8 40m
P6 climb up corner/groove to regain ridge then continue up. Groove is dirtier than previous and subsequent climbing on ridge. 5.8 60m
P7 triple chimneys. First two are easy, third has a block on top with wide 5.9 moves to get around. You could probably avoid last chimney entirely by traversing right. Let me know if anyone tried this. 5.9 60m
P8-10 exposed, fun, but licheny ridge climbing 5-
P11 short traverse around North side of summit class 4 with a snow patch when we did it. Belay just north of summit and you're there.

Descent: rap Foggels Vischer and continue rapping skiers left back to the glacial bench or rap to notch between west and midget, climb midget (5- 60m), 1 60 rap with a short down scramble to main tower ridge and descend mountaineers route.

Protection

Standard rack. #5 would protect the crux chimney well but not necessary.

Photos