Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade III
FA: F Bellucci, E Strain, A Voltolini, G Hopfgartner, M Piola, V Sprungli 7/1999
Page Views: 658 total · 11/month
Shared By: Eric Bluemn on Jul 11, 2019
Admins: Luc-514, David Riley, Bogdan Petre

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

P1, 6b – step onto the slab and climb a bulge, follow that to a crack. Continue up the crack, then right into a gully which you follow to a belay on the left.
P2, 6a – Continue up some lower angle slabs which lead to an arete with some bolts. Continue up the arete to a belay at the top of the first pillar.
Move the belay from the top of the pillar by downclimbing or lowering through off a slung horn.
P3, 5c – Climb up towards the next tower by taking a series of chimneys. At the base of the tower, clip a bolt on the face, then move to the left side and climb flakes and cracks to the top with a belay adjacent to “the point”
P4, 5c – cross the point and traverse easy ground to the start of the next set of slabs
P5, 6a – Climb the bolted slab to the next belay where the wall steepens
P6, 6b+ - Continue up the slab. The crux is well protected and can be French-freed at 6a.
P7, 6a+ - Follow the bolted line on the left side of the face to a point where you can break left around the corner to a dihedral. Here, ascend the dihedral (some loose flakes in 2019) to another bolted belay.
P8, 6a – Move hard left off the belay to a bolt in between two cracks. Climb up the cracks trending left around a roof, then go straight up a crack system to reach a large ledge and another belay.
P9, 6a – From the belay climb straight towards the right side of the summit pillar. Bolts at first, then ascend a hand crack to the top and a bolted belay.

If using the Rockfax guidebook, they neglected to include p8 in their description.

Descent: Two long rappels will lead you to the anchor for p8. From here, a full 60m rappel will land you at the rap station for Le Piège. Another 60m rap will lead you to the walk off.

Location Suggest change

Approach. Walk 2 minutes on the trail out of the hut and look for the bolted slab on the right with a bulge just off the ground.

Protection Suggest change

Rack to #3 camalot, double ropes All belays are bolted.

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