Type: Ice, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Zajchowski/Bouchard
Page Views: 1,651 total · 28/month
Shared By: Phil lip on Jul 9, 2019
Admins: Jason Hayden, Luc-514, Kristen Fiore

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Description Suggest change

Another long, spectacular pitch high above the road. As with many other lines in Smuggs, what seems ho-hum from below actually yields fantastic exposure and some steepness to boot!

Approach steeply across the Elephant Head Gully slide to the beginning of the ice and choose one of many possible lines (3 to 4+) that eventually lead to the amazing freestanding pillar. What seemed so small from the road may appear slighty larger now as you crane your neck skyward. Count your screws and persevere to the trees. Rappel to descend.

This climb receives an inordinate level of sun exposure. Combined with the very dark stone beneath, the ice leading to the pillar can become undermined on warmer/sunnier days.

If the final pillar is a no-go, one can easily bail leftward to ‘Intelligence Bypass’.

Location Suggest change

Left of ‘Watership Down’, the wall forms an arete. Just left of this feature is an obvious, full-length ice climb with a pillar on high. That’s it. Approach as you would for Elephant Head Gully, cutting left once above the trees.

Protection Suggest change

Screws

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