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Cathedral Gully

Steep Snow, Snow, Alpine, 1500 ft (455 m), Grade III,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: Unkown
New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > Mt Washington > Tuckerman Ravine

Description

It doesn’t always completely fill in and when it does it has a short season.The approach can be misery as well. But for adventure climbers, this can be a fun way to spend a day. Use the same bushy approach gully as Stovepipe. Navigate through bushes, snow and exposed talus. Take the left of the 2 gullies, the right being Stovepipe. The setting of the climb changes dramatically as you enter a high walled, deep couloir. The lower section sometimes has a ledge you’ll need go around or over, but it’s small. The couloir curves left, where you can see the top out. Skirt a rock bulge to the right, then move through a choke to the top out on the ridge.

Descent:
Continue up the ridge to the summit of Boott Spur, then down climb Hillman’s Highway. Or use Boot Spur Trail to descend, note that this may not be broken out.

Perhaps the description here is referring to the 'Link' trail. You can also use this to quickly descend to HoJo's (the Ranger Station), particularly if it's late or the wind makes descending Hillmans or the Lion's Head Trail a choice you'd prefer to decline. It's clearly marked on all maps. It's steep so even if it's not packed out you can get to the floor of the ravine in no time at all.

Location

Same approach as Stovepipe, but split to the left at the base of the buttress where Stovepipe begins.

Protection

Pickets if it's firm or you're nervous about the exposure.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jim Nupp at the top of the Cathedral Route on Boott Spur - April 2011
[Hide Photo] Jim Nupp at the top of the Cathedral Route on Boott Spur - April 2011
Jim Nupp midway up Cathedral Gully in perfect late winter conditions - April 2011
[Hide Photo] Jim Nupp midway up Cathedral Gully in perfect late winter conditions - April 2011
Jim Nupp on the traverse from Dodge's Drop to the start of the Cathedral Route on Boott Spur - April 2011
[Hide Photo] Jim Nupp on the traverse from Dodge's Drop to the start of the Cathedral Route on Boott Spur - April 2011
Cathedral as seen from Raymond Cataract.
[Hide Photo] Cathedral as seen from Raymond Cataract.