Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 576 total · 23/month
Shared By: cmonster on Jul 7, 2019
Admins: Kevin MP, Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

7/8/2020 Edit: After receiving feedback from A. Watts and his consultation of other climbers it seems as though the route we took was not, in fact, the East Chimney. According to these other individuals it seems the line we took doesn't have a recorded history or ascent. As such, I've renamed the route to the suggested route name in my original write up below.

 From the onset of leaving the ground the rock begins to crumble around you; eventually it was just assumed the barrage of rock would be constant so I stopped announcing every time one cut loose. If you bring a pack, hang it from your harness and begin making upward progress. Pitch 1 is the straightforward chimney; tread lightly and don't let your head get the best of you. There's not much for solid pro so place what you feel might work and move along. In about ~75-80ft, belay from the wide ledge. From here, Pitch 2 begins which is also where the first of the two cruxes start. With no protection save for the anchor, step across and pull up into comparatively better terrain and place a few small pieces. If you don't blow that, congratulations, you're alive and through the first crux. Take a breather and enjoy the view; not many have. From here, work your way back climbers left traversing delicately back to the chimney. Continue up through a bulging, squeeze chimney mixed with surprisingly better rock. (I placed a good #4 up high). You'll top out of Pitch 2 on a ramp covered in scree. From here, a short, ill-protected traverse over to a spire with a rappel will lead you down to the west gully. It should go without saying that this climb is a memorable experience and provides for a unique perspective of the park. A positive mental attitude coupled with a clear head will do better than any physical protection which was limited and suspect at best, a fall anywhere on Pitch 2 would result in a trip to the hospital at best. ***To anyone else who has climbed this we would welcome the opportunity to sit down and share our experience. **My submission for possible secondary/accompanying names for the route, "All Hell Breaks Loose'. CMC & MLM - 7/6/2019

Location

Ship Rock - the big chimney facing east visible from the bridge. Approach via Misery Ridge trail to Picnic Lunch Wall, walk along the cliff to its end then scramble up the scree field to to a ledge below the opening of the chimney.

Protection

Limited gear to #4 BD Camelot.

Photos

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