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Ute Crack

A3-, Aid, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 0 from 1 vote
FA: 2019
Utah > Wasatch Range > Northern Wasatch > Ogden > Ogden Canyon > Grey Cliffs > Upper Grey Cliffs

Description

Overhanging bottom section following a tan vein in the blue limestone to a solid drilled angle in a pocket. Vertical calcium deposits and wild pocketed climbing another 20 feet into the crack. Splitter to the top. Belay follower from two equalised bushes on top. No anchor. Walk off. 

Location

Overhanging alcove below the tan vien in the blue rock

Protection

A few very thin knife blades. Lost arrows, rurps, beaks and a big hook or two plus a single rack from 2-.3 (BD sizes)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approach topo
[Hide Photo] Approach topo
Splitter up top
[Hide Photo] Splitter up top
Transition from seem to crack
[Hide Photo] Transition from seem to crack
Drilled angle over the lip
[Hide Photo] Drilled angle over the lip
Crux is the bottom half
[Hide Photo] Crux is the bottom half
The obvious white line into black trending rightward up the center of the face.
[Hide Photo] The obvious white line into black trending rightward up the center of the face.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Cass Bindrup
Ogden
  A3-
[Hide Comment] Adding a few of these routes on here because I think there is potential for them to get freed. As of now they are aid routes and would require some work and bold climbing but the route quality is quite good.
Nuts in the seem at the bottom, overhung climbing (maybe low end 5.11?) to the drilled angle, some small cams in pockets (.2-.4), clip a fixed rurp and fire it to the crack. Good pro to the top. Jul 4, 2019