Type: Trad, Aid, 1600 ft (485 m), 12 pitches, Grade V
FA: 1963: Royal Robbins and DickMcCracken, FFA 2017- Sasha DiGiulian and John Cardwell
Page Views: 1,604 total · 44/month
Shared By: Andrea C on Jul 3, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

Excellent climbing! Beautiful view of the falls. Best done when the falls are running so you can fetch water.  If referencing Sloan guide then link p1-2 and p6-7. All belays have at least one good bolt. Expect some grass, mud, and adventure.

Goes free at 5.13. If aiding, there are a few hammered beak placements that would require 5.11 and 5.12 climbing to skip. Otherwise, the climb is characterized by moderate free and easy aid climbing.

There are rap rings on the anchors until the top of pitch 7 in the Sloan topo.

Location

Same approach as for freestone/lost arrow spire. From the base of the falls wall, traverse left to the start of fern ledge. Climb starts from the right end of fern ledge. 

Protection

3 large beaks
1 set offset nuts, including micros
2-3 cams from small - #0.4 BD, including totems and offsets
2 cams from #0.5-#3 BD
1 each #4-6 BD

Photos