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The Battle Continues
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Goatland Wall
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Agent Orange S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Battle Continues, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Culture Shock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Dissorder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fire Water S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hell Fire S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hellboy S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Highway to Hell S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Hot Pockets S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shock & Awe S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Subhumans S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sworm of Beers S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Turbo Sphincter S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Winking Owl S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 115 ft (35 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.59033, -111.64526 |
| FA: | Greg Martinez, Brian Goody, Dereck Sander - 10/22/2012 |
| Page Views: | 747 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Boissal . on Jul 1, 2019 |
| Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Very different in style from the rest of the Goatland routes, TBC tackles a clean panel of very soft white rock littered with square-ish black holds. It starts less than vertical but the angle kicks back quickly and the holds get further apart, leading to a very airy bulge right below the anchors. The climbing is pretty straightforward but the pump builds up when pulling the weight of 35m of rope while clipping from crimps.
One of the best pitches up there.
Protection
6 draws plus whatever you need for the pitches below. A total of 21 or 22 to link with Agent Orange (21 if skipping the intermediate anchor). A couple of long runners on the 2 leftmost bolts of AO keep the rope in a perfect straight line.
Rappel/lower of chain anchor, it's a FULL 70m with nothing to spare to get back to the ground.
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