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> 05 Southern Alps
> Haut Durance /…
> d. Guisane valley
> Pantalon
> k. Aiguille Basse
l'Ancienne voie
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
Routes in k. Aiguille Basse
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Crête gauche S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C0 |
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l'Ancienne voie S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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la Voie Courte S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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les Gradins S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C0 |
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Renflement orange droit TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Renflement orange gauche S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 40 ft (12 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 432 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | kenr on Jun 25, 2019 |
| Admins: | Luc-514, David Riley |
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Description
Lots of thoughtful moves sustained. Both starts are worthwhile, one balancy, the other tricky and strenuous.
Start at right end of South face by detached 3-ft-high rock. Get off the ground using both detached rock and face (trickier than it looks). From a bit below top of detached rock, move left horizontal about six feet (with minimal hand- and foot-holds) to reach featured gray rock above bolt. Up face past to right of vague ridge, passing old piton to reach gentler rock. Up that to choice of two anchors.
Start Alternate - (or is it the main route?): Get up onto the south face without using the detached rock to its right (5.8). Perhaps easiest to start to right of the vertical crack and first bolt, then diagonal left (tricky sequence?) across first crack and first bolt. Then up featured gray rock to right of vague ridge, passing old piton to reach gentler rock.
name? If you know the true name of this route -- or the name(s) of the creator(s) of this route -- please put it in a Comment or suggestion to this route, so we can replace the current generic place-holder designation.
Start at right end of South face by detached 3-ft-high rock. Get off the ground using both detached rock and face (trickier than it looks). From a bit below top of detached rock, move left horizontal about six feet (with minimal hand- and foot-holds) to reach featured gray rock above bolt. Up face past to right of vague ridge, passing old piton to reach gentler rock. Up that to choice of two anchors.
Start Alternate - (or is it the main route?): Get up onto the south face without using the detached rock to its right (5.8). Perhaps easiest to start to right of the vertical crack and first bolt, then diagonal left (tricky sequence?) across first crack and first bolt. Then up featured gray rock to right of vague ridge, passing old piton to reach gentler rock.
name? If you know the true name of this route -- or the name(s) of the creator(s) of this route -- please put it in a Comment or suggestion to this route, so we can replace the current generic place-holder designation.
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