The Mormegil

A superb route demanding a variety of climbing styles. Situated on the west end of Amon Rûdh, overlooking the spectacular Eldred Valley. Airy alpine feel and generally excellent rock.

The route starts at the western end of the wall, left of a huge roof, you can't miss it. It's a bit of a short gnarly bushwhack to get to the base from the flagged trail. Note: Powell River Rocks guidebook says 500m after crossing the main drainage - it's more like 50m. Most of the anchors are bolted.

P1: 'Canadian Classic', layback your way up the beautiful right-facing corner to a bolted anchor (10c)
P2: 5.7 hands up the double crack followed by a couple 5.9 moves to reach Gecko Ledge
P3: Climb a cruxy thin crack up to a small ledge with a bolt. Meander to the short vertical crack into face then corner climbing. Full value pitch, limited pro. Bolted belay (10c)
P4: Climb the blocky chimney to a bolted anchor (5.9)
P5: Burly offwidth leads into a very airy bolt ladder over a huge roof. Avoid the car-sized death rock. The bolt ladder is reachy, you’ll have to high-step your aiders and consider using the ‘be taller’ beta. Traverse difficult slab or pendulum across to the crack and climb to the bolted anchor. Follower will need to lower out from the top bolt. Unreal pitch (5.10b A0)
P6: Climb the crack to a groove, past a couple bolts and right to the trees and a bolted belay (5.10)
P7: Climb runout slab (5.8) then power through dense cedar bush to reach the Petty Dwarf Crossing ledge and a bolted anchor (5.silly)
P8: Traverse far left on the PDC to find an obvious left facing corner. Climb the bushy bulged corner to an obvious arching, left facing corner. Gear belay (5.7) Don't belay in a fire ants nest like we did.
*P9: Continue left across 5.8 runout slab and 2 bolts, make a reachy move up the flake and onto the ledge, tree belay. On descent, rap from trees out far right on this ledge
P10: Climb and easy unprotected groove (5.6 R)
P11: Ramble up the 3rd class Goat Highway to the summit

Descent: Rap the route, 60m raps. Be careful not to rap over the mega-roof. Bring some extra webbing.

*I cannot comment on this pitch as we couldn’t find the bolts, and instead bypassed it with 25m runout 5.8 slab and some cedar crashing. Also the last few pitches are a bit of a blur, take this beta with a grain of salt and sense of adventure.

From the campground, follow Goat Lake Main to the end; stay right at Dianne branch junction, stay left at D-branch junction. 4x4 required: water bars, creek crossing, landslide path. Watch out for large holes in the road... Before too long you'll reach a clearing, and an ATV trail leading to a bridge over a river.

The trail turnoff is on the right, shortly after the bridge. Follow flagging (mostly pink) up through the forest, generally along the southwest ridge - eventually you'll meandering through stunning old growth forest. You'll reach large boulders around ~1000m elevation, the trail veers right here. There is some misleading flagging that continues directly uphill (if you start following orange, you've gone too far). Trail eventually crosses a large gulley; shortly after this you'll reach Camp Radagast, and the base of the wall will be in view 50m later.

Double rack to 3" plus a #4, 12 alpine draws, a couple shoulder slings. 2x 60m ropes.