Climb up the wide chimney underneath the massive chockstone. Exit the chimney to the right via the crack in the roof(crux). Follow the right facing corner with awesome jams to the top! One last hard move leads to some easier climbing and the anchors. After you complete the climb, make sure to run both strands of the rope into the pitons to your right. This will save you from having to jug back up when the crack eats your rope.
On the right end of this crag is a massive chockstone that protrudes from the wall. The start is the chimney/stem box underneath this block. For a little extra wow factor, check out the area inside and behind that block, it appears to be held there by magic and fairy dust!
Standard ADK rack to #2. Some doubles in the hand/finger size might be nice. Fixed anchor.