Type: Snow, Alpine, 5000 ft (1515 m), Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,328 total · 37/month
Shared By: Reece Szymanowski on Jun 17, 2019
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

North ridge approach from Pole Creek trailhead crossing Hayden glacier.

Location

Pole Creek Trailhead (Rec / Interagency pass required for parking, self-issued climber's permit as of June-19, believe it will turn into more structured permit situation in '20 season)

Follow Pole Creek Trail through burn remnants to junction with climber's trail (slightly before treeline) and then shoot up snowfield/rock ridges toward Middle Sister to base of Hayden glacier. Ascend up obvious ridge/hogsback toward Prouty point and then head west under base of Prouty to saddle below North Ridge. Last ~900 feet up North Ridge is straight shot (rock ridge at start to east side is significantly more structured than scree fields slightly more to the west) with some rock bands to set up some potential belays/fixed lines depending on group's comfort with 35+ snow slope.

Total route is ~ 7 miles (one way) and 5k feet of gain. Many groups camp near treeline to make it a two-day trip.

Protection

Ax/crampons to full glacier travel and fixed line/belayed snow travel setup depending on group.

Photos

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