The striking and deep cleft on the right side of the main face. Probably best done as an early summer climb as it is quick to melt out and expose the shattered and loose rock step midway up the couloir (this is reportedly the 5.4 part). When we climbed it in mid June of a big snow year, this section was covered with a nice flow of water ice and the snow was frozen to a neve-like condition in the early morning. This climb does not last into the "typical" fall ice season most years, and I can only imagine the December FA was a powder-snow postholing mess. The angle never exceeds 50 degrees save for the rock/ice step. At the top of the couloir, we headed left up a dry chute to gain a class-4 ridge leading directly to the summit.
Right of center on the main face. We downclimbed and descended the couloir to the left (~40 degree snow), but the preferred descent is to follow the ridgeline northeast for 1/3 mile to a broad low-angle snow or talus chute. Make sure to leave nothing at the base if going this way.
A light rock rack and potentially a couple pickets and/or ice screws for those wishing to rope up.
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the base. The NW Arete climbs the rock to the left, and the North Arete climbs the rock to the right. These names do not make sense when looking at their respective locations on a m…
[Hide Photo] Scrambling along the final ridgeline to the summit. Red and White Mountain, Red Slate Mountain, and Mt Morgan North can be seen behind.