Type: Trad, 2500 ft (758 m), 18 pitches, Grade V
FA: Bart O'Brien, Mike Jauregui, Richard Swayze, 6/1989
Page Views: 593 total · 26/month
Shared By: Clint Cummins on Jun 16, 2019
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details


See the topo.

In July 2015, Greg Murphy climbed it and reported:

"Pitch 3 - sketchy, run out climbing with bad bolts.
Basically 150 ft of 5.10 with no gear. Heads up for sure.
Kept hoping the next bolt would be better.
One was flattened, presumably by rock fall.
The belay at the end was missing one bolt and the other was worthless,
so I had to keep going and rig a belay with micro cams and RPs. Old school."


Cross the Merced (might require low water) and locate the two dikes on the NW Face.
The Golden Bear climbs the left dike.
The NW Face route climbs the right dike, which has an "inverted Y" shape down low.


Significant broken and missing bolts as of 2015; would not be R if the broken and missing bolts were replaced.
So bringing a bolt kit is advised at present.
Nuts tiny to finger size.
1 set cams tiny to 4".