Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 183 total · 35/month
Shared By: Nathaniel Ward on Jun 14, 2019
Admins: Ryan Brown

You & This Route


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Location

Immediately to the right as you exit the entrance crevice. This is the first route you come to. Upper tier of the WaterStreak wall.

Description

First thing first: this is the best route name for a somewhat sandbagged route in the history of the sport of rock climbing. Well played, first ascensionist. Fun and hard face climbing on this one. The crux is well protected on very solid, good quality rock.

This route is on the upper tier of the WaterStreak Wall and is currently the only route to begin on the upper tier. The Gunks Apps guide recommends using the belay bolt, and it’s really a must; the drop off here is steep and a fall over the edge of the trail could very well be fatal.
Stick clipping the first bolt and/or clipping a long runner to the belay bolt is also a really good idea. If you fell before clipping the first bolt you would fall pretty far to the ledge below.

Climb the bolt line left of the belay bolt up and over the obvious bulge. Clipping the second bolt is hard; manteling past it is even harder. Gorgeous views of the Albany Skyline and the Hudson Valley meet you at the top.
A note on the grade: Off the ground, you’re doing what feels like maybe a v2ish boulder problem on really thin crimps, with a long reach that ends with a pretty hard mantel with bad footholds. The current grade given in the guide seems to adhere to the old school logic of, “well sure those are 5.11 moves, but it’s only 2 or 3 moves and the rest of the climb above is easy so we’ll stick with 5.10+.”

Protection

4 bolts to chains.

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