Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Dylan Thomas, June 2019
Page Views: 110 total · 99/month
Shared By: Dylan Thomas on Jun 14, 2019
Admins: Luc-514, Kris Fiore

You & This Route


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Description

Beware the Tooth: The protection on this route is actually very G rated, but the sharp arete on "The Tooth" has the potential to cut the climbing rope if the leader's line is not properly managed. Also, the leader must be very aware of fall consequence as they climb directly above this intimidatingly sharp feature. Double ropes are not a bad idea.

That being said, this is an amazingly exposed, technical, and sustained climb for those who are apt. With another day's work and a bolted anchor, this route will have very easy top rope access via a low fifth class scramble up the corner/gulley to the right. As of now, anchor access is very poor.

Grizzly ascends the dihedral feature formed by the right side of The Tooth, then gains the vertical finger crack by traversing left around the sharp arete from under the roof. After the crack, a technical face protected by small stoppers guards the anchor.

Begin by climbing the beautiful but short finger and hand crack to a stance on the huge ledge beneath the obvious arete of the Tooth. Move up and right under the roof and locate two parallel thin cracks in the dihedral formed by the right side of the Tooth. Use the cracks, the arete, and footholds on the face to gain a stance beneath the roof. Move left and execute a sequence of bouldery moves through the roof, then come out and around the sharp arete of the Tooth (watch your rope). Shake out, then fire up to another stance by jamming your way through the vertical finger crack above. Devious and technical arete and face climbing protected by small nuts stand between you and the chains. Make the moves quickly, then continue over the lip and climb easily to a ledge (Still needs a bolted anchor). 

This is an aesthetic and gymnastic line requiring a variety of skill sets for a send.

Location

Grizzly starts up a fun but short 5.9 finger and hand crack 35 feet to the right of the start of Black Plague (obvious), then gains the vertical finger crack on the main face by ascending the dihedral/roof feature formed by the right side of the Tooth.

Protection

Awaiting a fixed anchor. Doubles of finger size cams; micronuts. C4 #1 and #2 can help. Half ropes recommended due to sharp arete.

Photos

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