Type: Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches
FA: Sean McLane and Forest Altherr, June 2019, FFA Forest Altherr
Page Views: 2,285 total · 32/month
Shared By: Sean McLane on Jun 13, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Lurk Er, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Easily the best route we did, this is a classic. Get on it!

P1) Follow a crack left of the roof to a belay below the roof, 5.10-

P2) Horizontal roof crack to a belay at a stance right of the sccop. 5.10+

P3) Climb a short ways up the crack before diagonaling up and left on a slab and thin crack to a belay in a seam below bolts leading up to a roof, 5.11/+ (This pitch can be combined with pitch 2)

P4) The route's crux. Follow the bolts across the slab through a roof then up and left around a techy slab. As the crack starts to pinch down pull left into a gorgeous left-facing corner, 5.12-

P5) More left-facing corner requiring 3D slab moves, finishing up and right, 5.11/+

P6) Take it to the shoulder below the summit block proper on a slab next to crack, 5.7

Descent: At the base of the summit block, just right of the single bolt that leads to the top of the summit block, there is a bolted rap anchor. 3 raps lead to the gully on the backside of the Mineral wall, 1st Rap is about 30m to a ledge, 2nd rap is 10m to another ledge, 3rd rap is 25m to the ground. Skipping raps may result in a stuck rope. Descend the gully back to the base of the climb.

More spray here if needed: seanmclane.com/30-fa-projec…

Protection Suggest change

tcus to #3, extra fingers

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