Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: E. T.
Page Views: 81 total · 19/month
Shared By: nbrown on Jun 13, 2019
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This route consists of a variety of good climbing from cool underclings and cracks down low to an amazing moderate slab and face on pitch two.

P1. 5.11a. Start on the same ledge for as Head Cold, but move up and left, via underclings, past 2 bolts and a one-move crux to a ledge with finger-size gear. Continue past a 3rd bolt and into the short steep crack above (9+). The crack leads to a belay ledge with 2 bolts, 75’. Gear: 3 bolts and a moderate size rack from finger to hand size.

P2. 5.10a. Climb the shallow trough to the slab, passing 4 bolts and an (optional) #0.5 Camalot slot to a ledge. Place a high finger-size cam in the flakes, then step up onto the arete and a bolt. Climb the face left of the arete on 5.8 scoops past two more bolts and a couple cam placements to amazing perch belay on the summit cap (watch the poison ivy behind you!). Two bolts were added after the FA to make this pitch safer. Gear: 7 bolts and a light rack to hand-size cams.

Rap the route with a single 60 meter rope.

Location

Uphill from Andy’s Red Corner and left of Head Cold, start on a small ledge with large tree, the same as for Head Cold. Look for an obvious undercling flake just left of gully feature.

Protection

P1: 3 bolts and a moderate size rack from finger to hand size.

P2: 7 bolts and a light rack to hand-size cams.

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