Trad, 150 ft,
Avg: 2 from 1
FA: Justin Stolp (1992)
> Southwest Region
> Spire Rock
> Queen (W Face)
Start up the fist crack under the large tree, passing a ledge. You could start higher up by walking out on a ledge, but you're here to climb, right? Alternate between the face and crack, passing a couple of flakes wedged into a chimney as chockstones. Finish on large ledge under a blank runout face, with a ramp going up and climbers left. Belay directly above the crack system.
Walk off. Once on the belay ledge, hop south down and around the large belay pillar, and then walk east under the south face climbs (there will be bolts on the wall) towards a large blocky scramble chimney with a massive chockstone above it. Scramble up and under this large block, and then down the main walk off for the Queen.
Of the two main crack systems ascending the West face of the Queen, this is the right hand one. Starts under an obvious large tree with a wide handcrack.
Good pro the whole way. Gear up to 3" (4" helps, but not necessary to feel protected). Stoppers and micro cams handy. Belay: Sling a washing machine sized bomber pillar with the option of a piece or two as well.
Maltese Flamingo 5.8